Lots of people and very bad weather

In what is often declared as the world's biggest single migration event, the returning home of tens of millions (over 200 million according to CNN) of chinese to spend chinese new year with their families is quite something.

It is, in truth, the only important day in the calendar for this non-religious population and for a month every school closes; for a week every office closes. It is so hard to get tickets on the thousands of trains (of which extra trains are laid on, with extra carriages) getting one is THE challenge of the year. Many make massive profits from selling tickets if they have friends working in stations or ticket agencies; employers that can help get such tickets become employer of choice. In some cases employers hire coaches for their employees (this helps ensure their migrant workers return after the holiday too) and in rare cases some have even chartered flights (although with the PR this generosity gets in the papers it is probably worth it!).

Since i was in Shanghai for the weekend, last night i was at Shanghai station -possibly the busiest in the country. It very mush resembled a football match since there were tens of thousands of people. But this year is special.

Shanghai is (like more than half of China) buried in a foot of snow meaning trains are all late (flights too) so there were many many ppl who, not wanting to miss their prized train, had no clue when the train was going but were carrying babies and their worldly goods around fighting to speak to the hundreds of police that blocked the entrance.

Despite my feet being run over 20 times by suitcases i got through to 1 such officer to be told the soft sleeper train i had (1st class basically as all other tickets are sold out) was going to be 4 hrs late. Frustrated but not too distraught i weighed up my options... what to do for 4 hours, what meetings to rearrange that i'd miss etc.

Then, aware of the sketchiness of the info i'd got and thinking a 1st class train to Beijing ought to be the least affected, i struggled to another officer manning the barrier only to receive a 'i'll find out' reply whilst looking at his mobile phone. 10 minutes later i asked a neighbouring officer who beckoned me through. In the end my train only left 4 minutes late...with me on it, but plenty of others not.

It was quite an experience because tensions were very high outside the station. Whenever someone was let in, over the barrier (literally) after shoving their ticket in an officer's face, everyone else surged forward not knowing why the other was let in..or what train was actually leaving. The lack of information, the weather, the occasion, the barrier, the huge mass of people (many with babies) and all the luggage made for a scary situation. It is one probably happening all across the country. I hope nothing too bad happens!

p.s. there are articles saying much of China has run out of power because of a lack of coal; that coal being exported has been turned around and ordered back to port and so on. It is a big problem. Coal mines have been closed down because of health and safety problems; it is very cold so more coal is needed as heating; the roads are closed making it hard to transport coal to the areas that need it. The weather has cost over 20 lives and 2 billion USD of damage SO FAR with worst weather predicted to come.

its cold. its time to pop home

Its minus something degrees and the it feels like it. There is snow outside; though it snows rarely, the snow does not go away. This year, the snow has not turned black like it usually does, adding to my belief that the pollution in Beijing is getting better, even though plenty of people disagree with me.

It is 2008 yet everyone is thinking about Chinese new year (6-7 feb) and especially about what to do or where to go. Its cold in most of China and heading to the South or to SE Asia is expensive, none-the-less, everyone finds their way. Even if that way is by pretending to be a japanese person to buy your tickets to/from japan (as some of my friends are doing), or if it means taking days off before and after the holiday to get cheaper flights. Anyway, this week train tickets became impossible to buy -and thus the holiday season must be upon us.

The ski season has been a good one. Nan Shan resort has doubled in size compared to last year, including a black run that is well worth the 1 hour drive from Beijing and 20 pounds cost (all included); Hou Hai is packed full of people ice skating/cycling/chairing, as are countless other frozen lakes. I've been skiing twice and ice skating twice. I also organised a Bachelor party last Saturday where plenty of Russians were surprised at the 15 chinese 22 yr olds (mostly women) who turned up at Treasure Island. Leon got 5 lap dances and i think that qualifies as a successful Bachelor party, even though the women were not naked!

We are supposed to be moving office soon, since I have been relegated to the conference table, for lack of space and other staff are moving to Beijing too; my flights home are booked (1st feb-2nd march) and plans are afoot to go to Netherlands, Manchester, Woking, Camden and various other places for either work or pleasure. Tonight i warmed up for returning to London with a fancy Western meal (Alameda -Brazilian restaurant with fantastic 2 course stake meals with wine for under 20 pounds) and organised my trip this weekend to Shanghai.

It no longer feels strange to go to Shanghai for the weekend, as Shanghai feels so close; yet whilst booking flights to Rotterdam and possibly Prague or Berlin, I felt so excited to be going to these exciting places. Though i have been there before, and each is only a 1-2 hr flight away from london and cheaper to get to than Shanghai, they feel like different countries...different languages, cultures and people in each.

I can see why Europe is so attractive and how easy it is to get bored traveling in China. It takes so long and costs to much to see something that is not really that exciting or that different. I can see why Australians love the UK after spending 5 hours flying across their own country without anything changing at all! Europe is a special place and I really enjoyed my trip to Belgium 2 years ago. This time it will be good to not just drink more beer and eat more chocolate but to get back in touch with the concept of diversity, multiculturalism etc along with the issues of terrorism, immigration, politics, war and so many other concepts that are just barely existing in China. There are too many other issues; though some are constant here and in Europe: Climate Change being, possibly, the most pressing one.

For those in China, see you in 6 weeks; for those in the UK, see you in 2 weeks. For the rest of you, come visit!

The Philippines

In a country full of churches, it was only apt that on a rather unpleasant ferry ride, our neighbour was a Jehova's witness. As much as i would have loved to debate with him, especially after he started sprouting about the next world (have you given up on this world already?), it was much easier to feign disinterest and attempt to sleep. The in-ferry movie service included a short intro about God keeping us safe, hinting as to the importance of religion in the country.

Though it does not compare to Thailand, where almost the entire population is rather devoutly Buddhist, Thailand is strongly Catholic... and this has had a dramatic impact on the country's population which is soaring...still. In 2000, Manilla even effectively banned the use of contraception! Although the Mayor who implemented that has now finished his term, many public officials, including the new Mayor and the President still prefer to promote natural fmaily planning methods that are acceptable to the Church. You wouldn't catch the Buddhists doing that in Thailand, where the birth rate is almost half what it is in the Philippines. It is a real shame, but it undeniably will ensure the country remains poor for a long time to come... and might get poorer if it is unable to feed, house etc. its population!

Anyway, after the diving and the beaches it was time for.. more diving, more beaches and some pool time as well as making use of the deserted island roads to cruise around on a scooter, check out the island and the villages and, whilst relaxing at the rather up-market resort, enjoy the restaurant and the bar. It seemed plenty of other Brits had the same idea as us -spending 10 days in 5 pound huts and then a couple of days in 25 pound hotels :)

We will definitely go back because of the friendly people, the laid back atmosphere, the beautiful scenery, the mixture of things to do there, the convenience of transportation and language, the low prices, the great weather..... the list goes on. In return i am expecting something from the Philippine Tourism Board!

Happy New Year to you all. It is THE year, 2008. The most important year in 5,000 years of Chinese history. And if you do not know why, you must be living your life on a remote island in the Philippines -but, no doubt, you will soon find out!

With the fishies

We made it to Kookoo's nest. From Nuts Huts it took a 15 min boat ride, 45 minute Jeepney ride, 2 hour boat ride, 1 hour bus ride, 45 minutes on a motorbike and a 10 minute walk down 108 steps. It was worth it.

A private little cove with a beach, 4 cottages, a small restaurant that the owners and the staff serve up fantastic food on, a little jetty for the motor boat and... 2 fantastic owners: Nickie and Jamie. A sense of humour was not all they had... Jamie even certified me as a PADI Scuba Diver. So finally, 10 years after starting to dive in the UK, i have a qualification. Though, don't go there expecting a party -just expect to relax with wonderful weather all year around (they have their own micro-climate as they are often sheltered from the winds/rain).

I have to say, having dived/snorkeled in Israel, France, China, Turkey, Thailand and elsewhere (not least in the English Channel!), the Philippines is one of the best places to find great coral and fantastic fish so accessibly. Kookoo's nest has their own house reef and is the perfect place to dive. Nearby is Apo island where i dived with Turtles that were almost as big as me and all kinds of fishy creatures.

I even have the 'i dived Apo' t-shirt to prove it!