Laikipia

It rained a fair amount the week before last when I spent the week at a hotel the other side of Lake Naivasha (a two-hour drive away) for a conference. Having a golf course nearby provided a suitable place for running anyway and keeping up the training in preparation for doing a full off-road marathon at the end of June. Earlier this month, during a three-day holiday weekend I did slightly more than a half marathon off road in Laikipia, the same area where the full marathon will be. A very tough route included a couple of miles of full-on mud and a lot of hills, and beautiful views of the snowy peaks of Mount Kenya during the whole run.  It was organized by a campsite, so less than a hundred runners took part, but it was well organized and enjoyable. I saw a few locals who lived alongside the route but I wouldn't say they were there to watch: they were just out working in the fields or outside their huts.

During that weekend, with a few other families, we rented a large house nearby that was beautifully furnished and with spectacular views as well as an amazing swimming pool. The kids all ran around a lot and parents relaxed before and after the run. Kenya is full of amazing houses, lodges and other places built in rural areas in a completely different side to the country compared to the urban chaos (although there are still many amazing houses in the suburbs of the main cities, which were in the countryside when they were built)!

I actually went up to the area where the marathon will be for a few days to visit some of the community projects there that we support through our sponsorship of the race. The Lewa conservancy is incredibly well run and does tremendous amounts of work in the communities so the communities not only support the and benefit from conservancy (rather than resent the land that is set aside for wildlife), but also so they themselves are willing to prevent, deter and even monitor potential poachers. 

The conservancy has a great security set-up (including a system to monitor where many of the animals are, which are wearing collars, along with the rangers and that can also track and respond to any incidents reported in/by local communities) but it is clear that is success is mostly based on successful community engagement. From supporting water irrigation projects to clinics, schools and fencing to keep wildlife away from villagers' land, they end up letting the local government off the hook for its responsibilities. In fact it seemed to me that Lewa has almost become a police force for a major part of the region, with its security forces monitoring and responding to incidents every day, most not being related to wildlife (there is police liaison officer stationed with them).

The whole region in that area is full of conservancies, which are privately owned and managed parks to protect wildlife. It is actually incredible to see how much of Kenya is either national parks or conservancies, which is certainly positive in terms of wildlife protection. Some areas are just privately owned farms (often but not always run by White Kenyans) though, and those are areas that have been scenes of conflict during areas of drought where locals would be desperate to look for more land to graze their animals (though, as with most things in Kenya, apparently local politics also had much to do with the conflict as local politicians sought opportunities to benefit).

In Lewa I was able to stay at and visit some of the very nice high-end tourism lodges there which are all stunningly designed with incredible service. I can see why some people pay so much to stay there, though as a Kenyan residents the rates are much more affordable and good value for money. Of course much of the income goes towards conservation. 

This part of Kenya is not particularly accessible so there are a lot of small, often grass, airstrips and a few airlines that run services, almost like a bus. The planes often sit between 10-20 people and every day the route will change based on who has bought tickets. On our way out we stopped first at the Mount Kenya Safari Club airstrip to drop some passengers off. On our way back out we first went further North to pick up some passengers from another lodge in Samburu (really in the middle of nowhere, I didn't see any tarmac roads anywhere as we landed) before turning around to head back to Nairobi. 

From the plane it is clear how empty so much of Kenya is, how barren it is, and also how little transport there is. The views from these low-flying aircraft are fantastic and really interesting. After half an hour we reached the more fertile and populated areas, and then we came into Nairobi. Seeing the changes (as well as Mount Kenya in the distance dominating the skyline) makes it a very enjoyable trip.

We'll be back again in two weeks for the race!

Mating!

Early in the year we were given a couple of bunny rabbits which kept the kids entertained for a few weeks (they then got bored of having to take them downstairs to play from their hutch on our balcony)... the bunny rabbits became just rabbits, and too large for the kids to even get in/out of the box to take them downstairs. A few weeks ago one of the rabbits began shedding a lot of hair and the next day we noticed six small hairless ugly things in the hutch. Well, three have grown hair, become cute and survived into adulthood, after we were told we had to kick the male out of the hutch.

Though the little TV the kids watch is usually cartoons in Chinese to help with the language, I also think its better they watch some real TV sometimes or good Disney movies which nice plots and characters. So sometimes they go to the cinema, or watch something on our portable projector at home. Last week I thought they could get into some non-fiction, so they've been watching BBC Earth's Africa series. Attenborough at his best, and the footage is spectacular: it covers birdlife, large mammals, small insects, oceans, lakes, savannahs, forests and much more. The kids have generally enjoyed it, however most of the episodes are all about birth, fighting, death and mating... whether animals, insects or flowers. It's a bit much for the kids sometimes, especially the part with the baby elephant dying from the drought.

Talking about fighting, Leah still occasionally has bursts where she'll hit people if she is angry and unhappy... usually teachers or parents, so this is something we still need to work on. She's not great at controlling her anger. Maybe its the terrible threes or something! In other news, tennis continues and Hannah has experimented with several dance classes and currently enjoys tap dancing, though Leah has decided against it. The kids are definitely sprinters rather than distance runners. They often enjoy running so much that if they complain about walking, they'll prefer to run (which is more of a game) instead!

This week is also a little more than a month since Hannah got her smartwatch, enabling us to call her and see her location at any time (and see how many steps she does each day!). A relatively expensive luxury but quite useful. We can see the ridiculous route that her school bus takes as it picks up and drops off other kids taking more than an hour each way mostly, so after the Summer we'll work out an alternative for her and Leah (Leah will also start at the same school as Hannah soon). Generally Hannah doesn't complain too much about the bus, occasionally listens to music and often talks to friends.

After a couple of relatively dry weeks, we can be be fairly sure the rainy season has basically ended so the government have been out fixing roads, thankfully, as the storms had made the roads so bad they made driving dangerous as cars weaved all over the place to dodge holes that were often half a meter or more deep, let alone the traffic jams ensuing from the slow driving.

Meanwhile our apartment complex invested in a borehole to directly get underground water instead of buying in trucks of water every week (drinking water is still provided separately)... there was a lot of noise for a week. Last year it also invested in a backup generator in case of power cuts. Despite all the rain these last three months the Nairobi Water company still does not provide regular water supplies, hence the need for trucks or boreholes; and Kenya Power does not provide regular electricity either (most of the electricity comes from hydropower or geothermal; hydropower is affected by the rains) though often both companies suffer from the infrastructure as much as the water or power generation.