Saturday, August 09, 2008

The cycling -how close can the people get to the Olympics?

After an hour of indecision of where to watch the cycling -downtown might be crowded, foot bridges with good views might be closed, could i use the subway to watch in 2 places etc, i finally headed out into the suburbs. At the station exit, the volunteers did not know where the cyclists would pass exactly, even though i found the route 20m away. Most of the volunteers really only know such general information as to be rather useless it seems. My friend could not get answer to when the trains from nearby Tianjin would end as he has tickets to some football there and they did not know if they would be extended to help people get back to Beijing.

Apart from the rather useless volunteers wasting their time all over the city either having no-one to help or not being able to help, but satisfied with the addition to their CV; the other interesting group are the security.

I found some white barriers, all 4 different kinds of volunteers mingling nearby and 5 different types of security too. There was the regular police, the regular 'public security', special Olympic security, special Beijing city security and the cycling security as well as some other marshals or something. None of us watching (me being the only foreigner in a group of 300 or so at our spot) seemed to know who was in charge. Neither did the security, but they knew we had to be behind the tape. 1 of the security people realised we were supposed to be 6 metres from the road...so the tape was moved back.

Despite several loud protests (the Chinese love a good loud argument) we scuffled back and wondered when the cyclists would turn up. Until 15 min before they arrived the road was still open with plenty of regular traffic and the odd cyclist practicing for their later events to keep us on our toes and confuse us.

Fear not, when the lead 2 came through it was after at least 12 other cars (mostly typical black Audis with tinted windows and occasionally the odd flashing light) had actually stopped to inspect us and another 8 vehicles in the lead cavalcade including police coaches, police vans and other weird contraptions.

We got all excited for the 10 seconds from when we saw them till they had past and then looked for the 'pack'. 16 minutes later they turned up incredibly close together and then they were gone. It was all rather quick. Could only do 1 of a) watch, b) take photo, c) take video. I sort of managed b) and c) and ended up not really doing a)!!

Memories of 1st ever live Olympics event? Well it was a shame we could not just watch wherever we wanted to and string out along the road; it was cool to sort of feel in the spirit and since the race was not on tv, there's not much else to do!

Looking forward to the women's basketball Monday night though- It should last a bit longer than the cycling :) ....and the good news is that there has been a bit of wind and the pollution has cleared. woo hoo

It's started

We hired a room in a restaurant for the day and from 2pm started playing board games and mah jiang (traditional chinese game) whilst flicking between Toy Story and Olympic stuff on TV. After dinner we gradually got nearer 8pm and all kinds of friends of friends turned up to pack out little room.

During the ceremony itself we would sometimes dash to the window to see the fireworks (we were about a mile or two away from the stadium) and other times go 'ooh' or 'aah' especially when there were hundreds of incredibly well co-ordinated people doing fancy things with oars, drums, lights or (memorably) block letters of a printing press. We all liked the cute children that seemed to pop up every now and again though we weren't always sure why they were there.

Everyone else translated occasionally for me -not really the language parts but the meaning of the cultural relevance and we all generally thought it was very good. Then came the painful 2 hours of athlete/country introductions only punctuated by some cries of 'hao shuai' or 'mei nv' ='so handsome' or 'very beautiful girl'.

The mystery over the translation of Great Britain was solved (Chinese translation was 'England' rather than UK or GB, so I wonder what the non-English parts of GB think about that) and finally the huge Chinese team turned up, the speeches could me made, the athlete's vow taken (in Chinese only strangely -maybe its only the Chinese who might cheat, desperate as they are to be a national hero!) and the flame lit.

After midnight we wondered outside but the fireworks did not go on that long, so we all headed home. Finally IT has started. It really is impossible to understate the importance of IT for China domestically or Internationally; yet at the end of the day most events can only be watched on TV and it will be over in a couple of weeks.

None-the-less, I'll try to make the most of it, lookout for things to do and just read the numerous media stories that try desperately to find a new angle on the event or on China and wonder what will go wrong... be it pollution (absolutely awful today for the cycling) or security (already been 4 people kicked out the country for scaling a pole and hanging a 'free tibet' flag earlier in the week and some others kicked out for unfurling something similar in Tiananmen; though none reported in Chinese media of course).

More reports to come, but feel free to read or delete as you wish!

Friday, August 08, 2008

A special morning

After a few days in Xi'an (where i handed in my resignation effective end of August) me and John returned to Beijing this morning and took the bus from the West Station all through town to where we live in the East, through Tiananmen etc.

We actually came on the train from Tibet (though we got on at Xi'an) and it was not a particularly exciting journey, except the guy next to me had got 1 ticket to the opening ceremony from booking online last year and was traveling from Xi Ning (30 hours away) to Beijing for it. As we got closer to Beijing and light dawned we saw mist over the fields, but as we got into Beijing it was still 'misty' and even now, at 9.30am visibility is absolutely awful, which is a shame.

All the Olympic street signs had been up for months, even the scaffolding that was up around most key buildings making them look beautiful for the big day had been taken down last week. The first signs of the 'special day' was on the bus as the conductor was selling special tickets (just for today) and although most people had already used their card to swipe on, they still (me included) bought an extra 'special' ticket. Indeed, during the journey it became clear people were riding buses just to collect the special tickets (several different versions, only available today).

Next, from the bus, we noticed long lines outside all the post offices -of course today is the only day you can get special stamps commemorating the Olympics (unless there are more special ones on the closing plenary day too). John got a call from his friend -he had been queuing all night at a bank to get a special 10 Yuan note, only available today.

As we went through Tiananmen, it was closed for hundreds of cheer leaders who were practicing, it seems, for the cavalcades of important leaders who will be coming through for lunch with President Hu and the others. The TV on the bus informed everyone some roads will be closed for this lunch, as well as the torch relay as the torch makes its way to the stadium tonight.

The streets are very bare (apart from the legions of volunteers, police, army and all kinds of other 'groups') for a 9am rush hour -partly because everyone in Beijing gets the day off work today; a consequence of having the opening ceremony on a friday i suppose, but it had to be on the 8th -the special number that it is!

Saturday, August 02, 2008

The week before...

In the mornings, many of the subway riders are wearing some kind of BOCOG (Beijing Organising Committee of the Olympic Games) badge; the armies of volunteers are out in force (rather bored it seems but enjoying their free kit from Adidas); the air has cleaned up (some well-timed rain maybe?); 2/3rds of all advertising in the central part of the city is Olympic related (either the City's adverts, or the many Olympic sponsors).

The traffic restrictions are still in force; the newspapers and websites around the world have established their subsites with hundreds of stories published daily; everyone is asking who has or has not got tickets; the athletes have mostly arrived; the country villages for athletes and journalists to hang out in are up and running (my flat mate works in the Italian one); companies are desperately wondering how to get their VIPs into the country because of the tightened visa restrictions (and rumours abound as to the potential to get into some of these special events at the last minute if you know the right people, because they might be half-empty!)

6 days to go...

Saturday, July 26, 2008

Holiday in Jiangxi

Earlier this month, dashed down South for a quick holiday in Jiangxi -a province that is not really famous for anything really of note. However we paid a visit to Jindezhen, famous for its pottery (or China) I suppose. Here you can see a dragon made of pottery in the main square of the town. There really was not many signs of pottery left in the area; presumably it is all in mass production and factories mostly. However there was some karaoke in the local park that kep us busy (i.e. everyone paid more attention to us watching the karaoke than to the karaoke itself). Next we were off to Wuyuan county, and specifically to the least toursitic (but hopefully still pretty villages) we could find, since the area is getting increasinlgy well known for tourists.

The highlight of the trip was Likeng, a town that has not been touched for centuries, and even the tourist groups barely bother with spending more than 20 minutes there. Life still moves slowly, although the young people have, of course, moved elsewhere to earn money. The village has streams running through it and the houses are pretty untouched. Since the village was determined a suitable site for toursists in 2000 the government gives each village a certain amount of money (from the admission fee us tourists pay to enter the area) which boosts their income and, presumably, restricts the changes they can make to the homes.

Here, as with the other villages we went to), the locals had expanded their houses into hotels, where we stayed. In Xiaoqi we found 2 villages, 1 of which no-one went to and the other 1 of which there was only 2 coaches all day. It was not as pretty as Likeng, but we had a wonderful meal with a local guy who was an entrepreneur offering guide services and all sorts.

Food in his house involved a journey into the kitchen to see what they had (nothing) and then a list of possible items from his wife; she then went and picked the food and cooked it. Lovely and fresh! In between the two villages i took this fantastic picture, totally by luck, as the rain started coming down. The next village was near Jiangling, in an area famous for its yellow Rape. Except not the season we were there. So there was no-one there and everyone was surprised when a couple of foreigners wondered into the village looking for somewhere to stay.

After lunch (some rice that was cooked so it tasted like potato!) we were still hungry. How spoiled we are for food normally. Look at the grandfather, who evidently had been working hard and eating little all his life. We did not see him drink any beer, so it must have been his son (with a large beer belly) that the crates are for in the background (we were told it is cheaper to buy the beer in bulk!)

We went wondering up into the hills, found a canal (later were told it was taking water to a hydroelectric station to generate electicity), strolled along it till we came to a new road that was being built and ended up at Mountain Lake (3 hours later), where we found a house being dismantled tile by tile and a number of run-down delapidated hotels.
We also had a small problem when Andrea's sandle broke and had to hitch a lift with the old women who collect recylable rubbish once a fortnight to take to the town and collect money. In a truly memorable experience the 2 of us were squished in with 4 other women plus the driver as they drove at top (i.e. walking) speed to their destination dropping us off on the way. There is a short movie clip here.

And then, after 1 last night and more walking around the local countryside buying ice lollies it was time to leave. Although, from Shenzhen (near Hong Kong) it had taken us 1 over night train, 1 express bus, 1 local bus and a series of motorbike rides to get to this place, we were right next to a brand new expressway that goes to Shanghai in about 6 hours. If only we had a car like all the other Chinese tourists who were in the Wuyuan area!

Friday, July 25, 2008

2 weeks...

Back in Beijing after 3 weeks away, I eagerly anticipated riding the new subway that connects my home to my work and the blue skies. Alas, despite half the cars being off the road the sky was still blocked by smog. Word is that the power stations are running over time now to generate enough electricity to then be turned off during the games itself -ensuring clean skies during the games. If that is not the reason, then the government must be panicking, for what else can it do? Maybe it will just make it rain every night for a couple of hours.

Been receiving text messages recently (though not as often as others seem to be receiving them) which say something along the lines of:
Central Propaganda Dept, Central Civilised Dept, Central Foreign Propaganda Dept declaration on 16th July: "I wish the Olympics fortune, I wish the Olympics colour, I encourage the Olympics" Website with Q&A in multiple languages is online, you are welcome to register on the China Civilised Website and participate.
My translation is a little too literal, but you get the gist. China loves the word 'civilised' and anyone who has been here for a while quickly gets used to it and understands what they mean by it... just like that the government (stupidly) translates its Propoganda Dept as 'Propaganda' instead of using another word, like 'Information'!

Maybe the excitement of spending several days exploring villages and all things green got me going, because now i am back in the Beijing office, somewhat demotivated. It might also have been the excitement of the AIESEC Conference I ran for 5 days or seeing Andrea, or being in our Xi'an office. Plan's new Country Director starts next week so everyone in Xi'an was waiting with baited breath -obviously no pressure on him then!

I don't want to talk too much about the Olympics; after all in about a month they will be finished and everyone will have forgotten about the Paralympic games (though some companies seem to have changed their logos recently to include the Paralympic logo as well as the Olympic logo which is good) and life will be back to normal. China will have to find other things to say in the media to cover up the dire situation regarding inflation, water shortages, energy crises, climate change and countless other problems. Maybe it will be back to the Earthquake, showcasing all the wonderful work the government has done rebuilding homes etc.

Anyway, until that month, i guess it is all about the Olympics...and how many exciting corporate events will be happening on the side i can attend/slip into!

Friday, July 04, 2008

Back on the road

In more ways than one, I am back on the road. 1 of my new flat mates departed on Tuesday, leaving his bike behind for me to use. I now have a racing bike (rarely used) in Beijing, a mountain bike in Xi'an (will be used once i figure out a way to get it to Beijing!) and this cheap road bike.

Having not cycled around Beijing for close to 2 years (been back here almost a year without a bike and previously spent a year in Xi'an, where i cycled to/from work/chinese lessons every day); it has been somewhat exhilarating. It is so much faster than any other form of transport, yet so dangerous. In rush hour cars go wherever there is space: bike lanes, bus lanes or whatever -no matter where you want to go, there will always be a car trying to get there first.

There is no bright future for pollution in Beijing, as the government would never dream of restricting middle and upper classes from owning cars (apart from during and 2 weeks before the Olympics). This would annoy them -it is their right to have a car in order to spend the increasing wealth in Beijing, they would become dissatisfied with the government and that will never do. I suppose it is like guns in the USA. Both need to be restricted much more but not many governments are brave enough to do that. In particular Beijing is full of government employees cars and no government official with a car once to stop him/her self using it! Funny that London managed to do something -I suppose that the support of government in the UK is so low, it is not a problem if citizens are dissatisfied with their government even more!

The quality of cyclists seems to have improved though. Probably the slow or bad cyclists have given up by now, or upgraded to cars or buses. The new subway line should finally open this weekend, and then the number of cyclists should drop; whether then number of drivers will too is anyone's guess. And guessing is difficult in China -who would have thought 1 month before the Olympics Beijing is suffering from its worst pollution in years, even though June was its wettest June in 15 years (mostly rain induced by the government, one presumes, since it only rained temporarily each time -enough to clear the skies for 1 day and that was it).

But when it rained, the roads become swimming pools disrupting the traffic and all the water is presumably lost to evaporation or run-off, rather than stored in reservoirs or systems to be re-used. What is needed is good old British drizzle... for weeks to solve China's water crisis. But, apparently the government is determined to have a rain-free Olympics, so anytime rain clouds might threaten (August is supposed to be in the 'wet' (though hardly 'wet' by SE Asian standards) season), they will disperse them. Seems strange to have such a need to control the weather all the time. I guess the Chinese athletes are not sued to doing sports in the rain and it might give other countries' athletes an advantage!

I am also back traveling; after 2 weeks in Beijing, it is time to go to Hong Kong for a few days work, Jiangxi for a few days holiday and Wuhan for several days.

Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Taking more than your fair share hurts

This year seems to be year when, finally, those individuals and countries who have for so long been using so many resources started to realise that, though these people and countries are still the richest countries, they are going to have to change.

There just are not enough resources (especially at current ways of using them) to provide a 'good standard of living' (aka Western standard of living) for everyone. So the more we life the poor out of poverty, the more they are going to be putting us into poverty, by making everything we want to buy more expensive. Fantastic irony!

Who would have thought that China could force the Americans to use less oil, simply by using more oil themselves! Who could have thought that one possible solution to the West's obesity crisis is developing countries increasing obesity crisis? Unfortunately what is more likely is that Westerners and Developing countries will just eat more processed food, unhealthily cooked food and get lazier and lazier.

Apparently 22% of Chinese are obese. If they are, then how am I still alive.... their level of obesity must be somewhat different to us 'Westerners'!

So as the World starts to realise that we are all using too much energy, too much water, too much food and too many other resources (and the world's population continues to grow, now at 6.6bn) what is going to happen? Well, individuals will complain to their politicians; politicians will be expected to do something -i.e. complain to other countries and the World will continue to make no progress.

Thankfully good old capitalism should come to our rescue as all these higher prices for scarcer commodities create incentives for people to find better alternatives. And this is why China is always in the news: not just because it is causing all these price rises, but because it must be at the forefront of any new ideas. Otherwise there are hundreds of millions of people who will not be able to afford what they want, and what they expect!

Today i felt like i had to write something positive, because the greyness has been so depressing and unbearable. A few hours of rain clears the skies...but the next day the smog is back. Just as everything seemed to be getting better -and should be getting better because of the Olympics, it is pretty clear that is not. So, though all cars and factories and who knows what else will be banned during the Olympics; there is no way that is a sustainable solution. So we can all look forward to the return, and increasing, smog after the Olympics.

But, to be positive.... many of the new technologies in factories and boilers are permanent, more efficient, 'cleaner', and new subway lines are coming online... and, well, tomorrow we are screening a film that shows that nature can heal itself incredibly quickly and better than we could ever believe (if we leave it alone and let it). www.earthshope.org is a glimpse that maybe there is hope yet!

In the meantime, the Chinese are starting to realise they cannot blame the West -because that will not solve the problem. They have to shut-up and get on with solving these many problems, because, they are the ones who will suffer! And simultaneously, the West is going to realise (as they have started to by investing in carbon reducing projects in the developing world) that they key to our own survival is really, truly, helping developing countries overcome these global problems.

Usually, if you wanted to be a hermit and ignore the rest of the World through TV, internet, Phones and World Cups, you could do...to be a part of globalisation you had to be active (indeed, unfortunately, many in Africa are denied the opportunity to actively take part in globalisation through trade subsidies and poor governments) but now, now we are realising we cannot even be passive and ignore globalisation -because our food, energy and water are getting more expensive, our climate is changing and new health epidemics are constantly on the horizon that we cannot avoid.

China and the West. So different, yet so similar.

Sunday, June 15, 2008

Restoring something to actually look orginal!

Today, i read the following:
Visitors from around the world can now leisurely savor China's traditional architectural beauty at the Imperial College in Beijing, about 400 years after the first foreign students were sent there to sit tough Chinese exams.

The school, and the adjacent Confucian Temple, were formally re-opened on Saturday after three years' renovation.

Though, the reopening of Confucian Temple which is one of the best places in Beijing that no-one goes to (it is 1 minute away from the Lama Temple which everyone goes to), is good news, it is not the exciting part, which is:

The project aimed to reinforce and repair the centuries-old structures while keeping them "as original as possible," said Yu Ping, vice head of the Beijing Municipal Administrations of Cultural Heritage.

"We did not repaint the ancient patterns on the beams or remove the faded glazed tiles on the roofs because we do not want to lose the antique flavor," she said.

After the face-lifts, the two sites are now basically what they were in olden times, in terms of the layout and scale, Yu added.

Wow. This must be the first time any historic attraction has not been 'restored' by being freshly painted looking to look like it was only just finished! I have yet to go visit the 'restored' Temple but I cannot wait to see if it is true. If it is I might just agree with the comment:

The temple, which looks very authentic, is what I expected to see here in China," said Vishal Shorma, a Singaporean tourist.

Could this be a turning point for Chinese tourist attraction restoration work? Could China finally be realising that the beauty in ancient sites is lost once it becomes 'brand new' again, and that foreigners can only value how old China is if China actually looks old! Too many times, and i really mean, TOO MANY times have I seen re-painted monuments, statues, temples, shrines and everything else besides and not only does it annoy me, it makes all these repainted attractions look identical!

On a less happy note, China has, in the last few months changed its visa regulations with particularly bad timing, bad communications and illogical explanations. It seems they want to 1) keep 'bad' people out of China who might cause trouble during the Olympics and b) make it harder for foreigners to work in China if they are taking away jobs from Chinese people.

Both reasons are fine, but the solutions are ridiculous. It is of course still relatively easy to get a tourist visa (and if you can come here for 30 days, that is enough time to cause trouble, surely?) but it is now very hard to come here for longer than that and this affects entrepreneurs, those working for charities or those working in SMEs, since the only other option is to get an official work visa (instead of a 'working visa' which is now no longer available) which requires an official company to apply on your behalf, much hassle and a trip back to one's home country to reapply for such visa.

If they want to make it harder for foreigners to work in China, that is fine (though slightly crazy bearing in mind how dependent China is on foreign trade), but why make the changes with only 2 month's notice and why before the Olympics, whilst everything else is happening, and why not tell people, and why not universally implement the regulations (every different visa office around the world, or 'visa extension' office in different cities in China are translating the confusing regulations differently)?

It has led to a drop in tourism, it has led to people jumping ship to hang out in hong kong or Thai beaches for the summer and it has even led people to just going home and finding jobs elsewhere. It is just crazy, though fortunately does not affect me (touch wood)!

Sunday, June 01, 2008

Too many apartments

The 1st apartment I lived in was an old 20 story Chinese building and I spent about 5 months living on a camp bed in the living room (that was also the office in the daytime) though the bathroom did not have a Western style toilet, sharing the apt with 1 Chinese girl and 1 Australian girl. Rent =0; the 2nd was in an old 6 story Chinese building and I spent about 5 months living in my own double bedroom sharing the apt with a Chinese girl. Rent =100 pounds a month; the 3rd was in a modern 25 story building and I spent 1 year living in bunk beds with 3 other guys (Indian, Slovakian, Chinese) in 1 room (this time there was a living room AND an office room) and there were 2 Chinese girls in the other room. Rent =50 pounds a month.

Then, the 4th was in a modern 25 story building (this time in Xi'an) and I had the study room (converted into a bedroom with 1 of those raised beds that had my wardrobe underneath) for 6 months sharing the apt with a Chinese guy. Rent =0 (though had to furnish the room); the 5th was a slightly lower quality building 100m down the road and I actually rented that apartment myself, sharing with an Australian girl for about 4 months. Rent =50 pounds a month; the 6th was only temporary (3 months) 200m back the other way in a run-down 6 story Chinese place that had a pipe for a shower, coming out on top of a true 'hole in the floor' and no kitchen (not that i ever use one). Rent =10 pounds a month.

Back in Beijing, the 7th is the nicest so far in a very well built 30 story building with en-suite and everything. Rent =100 pounds a month. Tonight I am leaving for apartment number 8; back in the same complex as number 3, though this time with a room to myself (and thus higher rent). Hopefully I won't be moving anywhere else soon, but who knows...

I have accumulated one hell of a lot of stuff in close to 4 years; 3 large rucksacks worth of clothes, 2 suitcases of files, several bags of shoes/sandles etc, several bags of wash stuff (so many free shampoos and toothbrushes etc), lots of bedding, lots of camping gear, lots of computer gear and who knows what else is in the other bags. Oh well, time to look a fool trying to take it all downstairs to the taxi. Happy Children's Day everyone (though I believe it is only celebrated in China)!

Saturday, May 24, 2008

Earthquake's wider impact

Everyone is talking about the earthquake; the media is blanketed with it, Chinese people are all continuing to fund raise, bloggers discuss the most and least generous celebrity/company/entrepreneur etc, volunteers pile in to help, charities organise fundraiser events, Foreign governments donate supplies (the country has run out of tents!) and everyone competes to donate even more.

For those westerners here, we have been eagerly anticipating the Olympics, not because of the sports but because of everything else that it will affect. Now we have the earthquake and the impact is incredible -the Olympics will be boring in comparison.

Every company is competing who can donate more and employees donate more and more by the day, government departments set a mandated minimum donation from public servants, companies that do not loudly say how much they have donated run the risk of being boycotted (and many have, e.g. McDonalds branches being forced to print flyers saying how much they donated, as customers were concerned they had not). Will it affect all the other causes that need money? Will businesses do anything above and beyond cash donations?

The whole country has learnt what a charity/NGO is and they are, for the first time, not only being motivated (by media, peer pressure, guilt etc) to help, have found a way to help by donating..and there are plenty who can afford to donate. The amounts are staggering. Will it kick start the charity sector in China? Will it kick start a new conscience amongst the urban rich?

During the 3 minute silence the country came to a standstill and made a noise, during the 3 days of mourning it was so intense websites literally stopped publishing any non-earthquake news, some people were beaten up for celebrating a birthday party and you were unpatriotic if you did not buy a flag, a sticker and a 'I love China' t-shirt. Great that the patriotism was no longer channeled against Westerners (because we all, of course, want to split China up) and was just a solidarity thing for those affected. Will this last or will the patriotism quickly turn anti-someone else? Will it be noted that foreigners living here donated so much and that foreign aid has come from other governments or will that be swallowed up in the media? Will the fact that Taiwan provided experts be the start of some closer collaboration between the two?

As there are so few charities in China; especially few that are allowed to fundraise and are capable of managing such amounts of money, all the corporate, foreign, individual donations have all gone to just 3 or 4 organisations. Whether they will be transparent with their spending is one issue; another is whether they will sub-contract to local charities, who are always desperate for funding, yet another is will all the other charities who are piling in to the affected areas to help (from other regions in China) mark a step growth in the scale and capacity of the sector in China?

Unfortunately a second outlet for people's desire to help has been through flying or driving to Sichuan to volunteer. The result is scary. Even without the volunteers the army themselves lacked equipment and training. The volunteers blocked the roads, used up scarce water and food, got in the way and most of all, did not even realise they were making things worse not better. Most just ended up taking photos and showing all their friends back home. Some did this because they could not find anything productive to do; others actually went to the affected area with the objective of taking photos and showing off how they 'helped'. Will this lead to a huge increase in volunteering in China and will charities improve their abilities to manage such volunteers? Is it just a skin-deep act of showing off and will put all charities off using volunteers & all true volunteers from volunteering?

There are so many aspects to the impact of this earthquake to keep everyone talking. For many Chinese though, they are starting to get fed up of the horror and the depressing images. Outside of China everyone compares the relatively efficient government response to the Americans' mess-up in New Orleans and the Burmese Generals selfishness and evilness; Charities fear they cannot raise more money for Burma as the media has such poor access to the country there are few images/updates available on the news; Corporations admit China's market is just a little more important than Burma's (hence their massive donations to China in comparison) despite the lack of domestic funding resources in Burma compared to China.

Plan is doing something and I will share details of that later for those interested. In the meantime www.china-crossroads.com is the place to go for updates. I was actually in the air when the earthquake struck, on my was to Bangkok for a 2 day work trip (followed by a few days holiday in Malaysia), and just got back on Tuesday night to the furore, here in Shanghai (Olympic torch was in town, so everyone was super-patriotic!)

Thursday, May 15, 2008

Reflections on the Earthquake

I have been in Bangkok for 2 days at a Plan regional meeting, and was on the way there as the Earthquake struck. My colleagues at the meeting are highly experienced in disaster relief, unfortunately, due to our projects in Pakistan and Tsunami affected areas. Plan China's work has not been too badly affected, though hundreds of houses and tens of schools in the villages we work, about 400km from the epicentre were damaged.

Now, we must decide what we will do in response, since we have no experience in disaster relief in China, nor do we work in the areas directly affected. However, as Plan and others recognise, after the first 2 weeks of rescuing survivors, comes the incredibly hard job of rebuilding villages, schools, communities, water systems, food supplies, livelihoods and so on.

In these areas, Plan China does have expertise, and if we couple this with the expertise from our Asian colleagues in child-centred disaster relief planning participation, socio-emotional support programs and the other programs. We have a number of reports on what we did well and what we did badly in the Tsunami affected areas especially, so we will have to see what Plan China decides to do.

As terrible as the earthquake has been, the western media is now starting to focus on the wider impacts on China and, possibly, some silver linings. Money is not the problem -the government does not lack money, and neither do many of its middle/upper class citizens and Chinese/Foreign businesses -all of whom who are donating spectacular amounts. What is the problem is managing and coordinating the resources, departments and organisations involved.

What the disaster might lead to is a more free media, a greater focus on preventing disasters, less attention on the Tibet/Olympics issue and, most importantly, an opportunity. An opportunity to rebuild communities, that were already quite poor, with a focus on the elderly, women or children; an opportunity to ensure a corruption-free rebuilding project where villagers get fair compensation, quality homes etc; an opportunity to make the communities better than what they were before with more attention to environmental issues for the new buildings; an opportunity for community involvement in decision making and reconstruction efforts etc.

We will have to see what happens; we can, i am sure, all hope for the best for the victims in China and those in Myanmar, whose situation is undeniably bleak in comparison to China. China is fortunate to have a relatively competent government, a wealthy government, a strong capable private sector, an open (though not free) media and the desire to do what is best for its people. If only Myanmar was the same.

Monday, May 05, 2008

After the rain

Yesterday was beautiful, with not just clear blue skies but also (unusually) some wisps of cloud floating through the sky. The perfect weather to overcome a hangover by spending a few hours in some of Beijing's beautiful parks which are being replanted with flowers (everything dies in winter and gets replanted in the spring). The day was only ruined because the DVD i watched stopped working 15 mins before the end :(

Today, the sky is blue but the pollution has started to return -1 day more of solid traffic and the sun will be hidden once again... until it rains again, like it did on Saturday, which cleared the skies and alleviated Beijing's water shortage for a couple more days. Thankfully it only started pouring down after me and Chris had got off the Great Wall into a bus. We'd spent the entire previous day hiking and (literally) climbing the Great Wall with 5 girls.

Unfortunately the girls all bailed out and got a ride back to Beijing Friday night, wasting all the camping gear they had carried for 10 hours; leaving me and Chris to spend the night alone in one of the guard towers atop the Wall. I fell asleep looking through the tower entrance at a the stars, though didn't sleep too well because of the worry some night-time hikers might stumble (literally) onto us during the night.

We'd already had to deal with 2 hikers who wondered through at 11pm, a Chinese couple who must be crazy to be hiking in the dark over such dangerous terrain. Though we were relieved to hear one of the voices was female as they approached we still hid as they walked through our tower -with us on the top!

The long holiday over (Thursday was int'l workers day, the weekend was moved to be Friday and Saturday and Sunday was a holiday for youth to commemorate youth day) I'm in Beijing for a week before heading to Bangkok for a couple days work and Malaysia for a quick break.

Sunday, April 27, 2008

Chinese wedding

An affair that is a curious combination of East meets West. The wedding couple take millions of photos before the wedding in full wedding dresses then, on the big day everyone meets at the husband's home to smoke, eat fruit and eat sweet things. Guests cannot say no to anything, of course.

With the bang of firecrackers the couple arrive at the house with cameras flashing and the groom carries his new wife into his bedroom that has been decked out in red and double 'xi' 喜喜 everywhere. After photos of the couple on the bed and in the house (the whole wedding really is about photos!) everyone goes to the nearby hotel for the wedding lunch to give a red envelope of money to the couple upon their greeting at the entrance. More sweets, more cigarettes and then the celebrations begin.

The wedding I went to is a colleague of mine... you can imagine that charity workers are not the richest, so it was no fancy shanghai 5 star hotel or anything (more like a 2 star, but still looking nice); in fact my other colleagues who went, and are not from the local area the bride is from, could not really understand the local accent. Me, well i had no chance :)

Everything seems informal as no-one dresses up for the occasion apart from the couple themselves and bridesmaid/best man, kids run around screaming, cigarettes/nuts/Sunflower seeds litter the floor in seconds and nothing seems well organised; but of course this is China so everyone takes it in turn to go on stage and wish the couple well (in the mean time the cold dishes sit on the table untouched, which is remarkable!); they both go around the tables drinking with everyone and the parents do their utmost to keep order!

Once the eating has finished, everyone ups and leaves with another quick photo and thanks and then the bride, groom, bridesmaid etc go back into the dining area to finally eat! With wedding invites sent out just a couple of weeks before it is quite different from the very big deal we make of weddings in the West. Though the wedding dress, wedding music and honeymoon are all imitated here; there are a number of traditional Chinese customs, such as red everywhere, 'xi' everywhere, speeches and drinks etc. Overall a rather strange experience, and somewhat anti-climatic, but still pleasant and the bride, Li Na, looked incredible!

Thursday, April 17, 2008

Under the surface of Malaysia

Now, after a day of work, I am writing this whilst sitting on a beach at a candle-lit table waiting for the BBQ to be ready. The afternoon was spent lying in the sun, finally getting a few hours sleep, enjoying the air, sun and sea views. I chose one of the medium-size beaches on the Perhentian Kecil island, with about 6 restaurants/cafes/bars, 5 chalet style accommodation options and 2 dive shops. Of course most people are couples, but they are all friendly and open at the bar!
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Yesterday was my first wreck dive which was pretty cool, although the visibility was not that high. The second dive was a traditional 'coral and fish' dive and had more to see. A night spent sitting on the beach at the 'bar' with candles in the sand, chilled out music playing and slightly drunken conversations followed.

The last dive was the best, seeing some sharks, turtles, stonefish and generally swimming around amongst scholes of fish the entire time; swimming eye-to-eye alongside many of them is very cool... somewhat humbling as the fish show how superior to humans they really are - and truly beautiful, of course the corals are stunning too. And everything down there has evolved in its own way, with own colours for a reason.

I took the bus to the airport to fly back to KL and, as the area near the islands is particularly Muslim, found my fellow passengers to be entirely Women dressed with a headscarve and beautiful, flowery dresses. Malaysia is a great example, even more so than Turkey, of a country with many Muslims that can successfully modernise and where Muslims can live in harmony with Chinese, Christians, Hindus and so on.

Having said that it seems they are not really creating a single Malay identity (as the UK tries to do with its immigrants) but allows them to live separate identities alongside each other, to some extent -a policy the UK tried and declared a failure...leading to a segregation of ethnic groups and conflicts. I'll have to find some Malaysians to ask more about how they think their ethnic groups coexist, or otherwise.

The last day was spent (well, 4 hours of it -which is enough) exploring KL's squares, mosques, buildings, shops, ethnic quarters and so on. It seems a delightful city, easy to be in and get around in, clean and simple, relatively small and cheap. Only the heat and humidity bothered me, which was really high on the last day.

The flight back was packed with chinese tour groups (either Chinese from China or Malaysian Chinese), most of whom had never flown b4, and this is always an interesting experience as they struggle to adapt from the Train to the Plane... not turning phones off, standing up 10 secs after take off and touch down (only for a hostess to rush over and shove them back into their seats), sitting next to their friends rather than in their allocated seats (and walking back up the plane to find their friends while everyone else is still boarding) and so on. Well, its good to be back, I suppose!

In touch with nature in Malaysia

Airasia, the easyjet of asia, started flying from china to Malaysia recently, just in time for a conference there. Since I'd worked the whole of the previous 3 day weekend, i took a few days off b4 and after the conference and found myself arriving at Kuala Lumpur (KL) at 4am wondering what to do.

Several hours later, after some last minute shopping for more sunglasses and sandals (always get broken somehow) and some yummy Indian food, the bus finally left for the Cameron Highlands, an area in the mountainous jungle that is cool, wet, green and very fresh. It was developed by the British colonialists as a retreat with plenty of hiking paths -along with the left-hand drive, widely spoken English and good infrastructure, just 1 of the (nicely) positive legacies the British have left here.

1 legacy the British did not leave behind is that of good maps. As with everywhere else in Asia i've been to, 'hiking' maps are inaccurate, not to scale and useless. This meant I had to run the back 3km of a hill path, partly bare-footed because my sandles were not tight enough to my feet, and hitch back to make my bus -in the end with 15 min to spare but it was close and some lucky guess work on paths was needed!

Earlier that morning, I'd joined a half day trip to the jungle and to the tea plantations (another British legacy) with a fantastic guide showing us which plant leaves can be used for what medicines, which smell good etc. It was a fantastic trip... combined with the afternoon hike/dash the 22 hrs spent in the Cameron Highlands (inc. 7 hrs sleeping) were well worth the combined 11 hrs bus ride there and back.

Malaysia has fantastic food -Indian, Chinese and Malay with wonderful flavours in the curries, a wide selection of fish, meats and vegetables and, most importantly, excellent mango shakes, which is always the highlight of coming to SE Asia.

KL is a very pleasant city which was only really developed in the last hundred or so years and has an interesting mix of Islamic style buildings, modern skyscrapers and more plain buildings. Overall it is a great city, with decent transport and good night life too.

What is most striking about KL is the mix of Malaysians of Indian descent, Chinese descent and Muslims as well as native Malays. On the streets there are women if full habib (if this is the right term), traditional dresses or those just wearing colourful head scarves. Then there are plenty of Indians and non Muslims, the latter likely to be seen in more modern clothing. All of them, of course, spend more time on their mobile phones than they do breathing of course... I can barely imagine what SE Asian culture was like before the mobile!

Monday, April 07, 2008

a shot in the foot

If China is not in the news enough with the Olympics, with its environmental problems, with its human rights problems, its trade and economic growth, it seems insane that it could be in the news even MORE. Yet, now that the Olympic torch parade, which lasts a number of months, has started, and is attracting major protests in every city through which is pasts, it seems that China will be in the news on a (literally) daily basis. Although this parade was supposed to be a positive PR tool (the longest Olympic parade ever), it is now a constant, ongoing PR disaster!

That means every day there is now an opportunity for protesters to raise any issues, be it Tibet, Burma, Sudan, Falun Gong or anything else...regardless of the truth of what many of these protesters say (honestly the Tibetan rioters probably injured more local Chinese living in Tibet, than the Chinese police injured Tibetans), everyone will be bombarded with more and more about China. This will mostly be negative (what is not negative in the media nowadays?), and everyone, from politicians, to business people, to celebrities, seems to be being affected by this.

It seems like it will be an interesting 4 months until the Olympics; and no-one seems to really actually care much about the Olympics, outside of China!

Apples!

Most of the last 3 weeks has been spent in Xi'an or in the countryside nearby, as we organised another study trip for companies to learn more about poverty in China, showed around the managers from another company whom we might work with, and trained 25 foreign students who (through AIESEC) will be now teaching High School kids in China (in English) about poverty related issues.

The last time we organised the study trip, one of the attendees noted that being in the countryside at the height of the apple picking season was the highlight of the trip for her, adding colour to the countryside (the apples are red) and getting all the villagers out into the fields; there was also colour added to the villages with all the thousands of apples (literally) piled up on every single piece of spare land in the villages, waiting to be packed and shipped/sold.

In March the trees are all bare unfortunately, though some of the apples on sale still taste ok even if they were picked before the Winter! Yesterday I attended a big conference to attract investment into Shaanxi province (where Xi'an is) and the government officials responsible for trade did not hesitate to stress the opportunities for investment into the apple industry as well as natural resources (plenty of coal, oil and gas still available for digging up if any readers are interested in this sector).

Before, when asking the villagers where all the apples went, I never believed them. I presumed a middle man picked them up, took them off to be packaged and then they were transported etc. But, when they were saying they are sold all over the world, they are speaking the truth! Indeed most of the apples are sold in the apple juice market, for export, all over the World. So next time you drink some apple juice, it may have been made with a red apple from a little village (with a name you cannot pronounce like Xi Po) in the middle of China and that you are helping make some poor people a little less poor... only a little, though, as most of the profit will be going to the supermarket, the distributer and the packing/juicing company, but still...eventually, down the line, some little kids are benefiting. Aaah, the benefits of trade!

Tomorrow I am off to steamy Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia for work/travel. Enjoy the snow in the UK!

Saturday, March 29, 2008

buses of migrant workers

After a week out in the countryside enjoying the fresh air and blue skies i popped back to Beijing for a few days and, as usual, took the bus Beijing West Station through Guomao, at the heart of the business district, to where i live a mile south of Guomao. Getting thus bus is not only ridiculously cheap (approximately 2.5 pence, or 5 US cents), but faster than taxis that cannot use the bus lane, and more convenient than the subway which does not connect to the Station, nor to my apartment (yet!).

The bus is more than half full of migrant workers with their nylon bags with their entire life's possessions inside who come from across the country to Beijing in search of jobs to earn money to send home (or take home, if they go home occasionally) -they tend to be Men, they tend to be poor (and poorly dressed, but that is excusable!), and they tend to be rather lost and sort of excited at the same time, and in groups. They all head for Guomao, either because they hear it is the heart of Beijing's construction boom, or because they might already have something lined up there, through friends already working here, or through some kind of recruitment agency. I would like to ask them actually, but can barely understand their accents for simple words :(

The last few weeks have been somewhat crazy with presentations, trainings, proposals and all sorts -most last-minute, let alone the travelling to and from Beijing, Shanghai and Xi'an. But, the train is my best friend and so is the new Cocoa flavour of Dove chocolate (similar to Galaxy) -almost as good as the great stuff in Belgium 5 weeks ago!

Yesterday it was snowing in the countryside of Beijing; but in 10 days i will be in Malaysia working for a week -can't wait, especially for the food, let alone the weather..and by the time I am back Beijing should be warm.

Monday, March 10, 2008

Protests against China

2 weeks of working in our UK (in Camden) and Global offices (in Woking, not a touch on Camden!) over, I headed back to Beijing via a few days in Hong Kong. Note to self: do not mis-read flight time and get flight time time wrong by 1 hour 10 minutes in the future!! Now I am in Shanghai (can't sit still!) and BBC World is raving all about the Tibetan exiles in India starting a march to the India-China border to protest about the treatment of Tibetans in the Chinese province of Tibet.

When I was in the UK, the papers were all about Steve Spielberg withdrawing from his role as an adviser to the Opening Ceremony; British Athletes had joined a group of Athletes from around the World who wanted to use the Olympics as leverage on China and the British Olympic Committee got in hot water for asking its athletes to sign that they would not protest in China. Evidently all eyes are on China, and it is not just those in China who care.

People in Plan UK and Netherlands were asking me what Plan China will be doing about the Sudan issue and the answer is very obvious: nothing. Plan has no leverage over China in its dealings with Sudan and seeks to engage constructively rather than criticize. Of course, if Plan did say anything, our work in China would be restricted (as might our work in Sudan), which would not be of benefit to the hundreds of thousands of children and their families who we are helping every year. This is only my personal opinion (and I have many!), but we'll be leaving the protests to those who have nothing to lose inside China, such as the Tibetans in exile (the Tibetans in China might suffer because of their exiled colleagues, and then i wonder what the exiled Tibetans will do?) or other human rights groups who do not work in China, such as Amnesty.

Of course what most people fail to realise is that, though the Olympics does offer an unusual chance to pressurize the government, any difference that those groups will make will only be superficial and will be withdrawn straight afterwards. Of course, the government (any government)'s number 1 concern is its own future and that depends on its own citizens. In China, those citizens only really know what the government wants them to know since it controls its domestic media so well. So as long as the government can keep the 'physical activities' that might happen in Beijing covered up well (undoubtedly it will move against any protesters in seconds) then anything else is irrelevant, to some extent.

What is interesting is that there could be a lot of domestic groups organising protests over more serious matters than Tibet or Sudan; such as farmers and, though that will not get in the media either, it could have more interesting, longer-term implications. Also of interest, to me at least since I work with companies here, is the pressure on the Olympics sponsors that pressure groups are mounting, as we all know how much International media can damage big Multinational companies!

Monday, February 18, 2008

Annual trip back to the UK

I never thought it would be possible to ever empty our house with 25 years of stuff (and stuff is definitely the right word) in it. It was not easy, with furniture still being sold on eBay just a day before we had to be out, but eventually we managed it. I had gone through the emotional side of things when i packed my stuff up last year, not expecting to see the house again, and in truth was mostly sad at having to smash up some of the furniture (like my 23 yr old bed!) for the skip, since we didn't sell all of it. The bright side is that we did manage to sell most of for just a few pounds each -but at least someone will make use of it all in the future.

With that done my mum could relax somewhat and we took to the country with Beth for a good B&B, pub meals, long hike, pretty old villages, shopping and homemade chocolate fudge. Fantastic! A very British thing to do in a very British area (the Cotswolds -between Wales and Oxford).

A few brisk muddy morning runs with Dad later and then I was off up North. The best thing in all of Manchester is Jen's (and Becca's, but she ran away when she heard I was coming) endless cups of tea and cooking (I helped, although it was only a salad!). The next best thing is drinking in a pub, playing some pub games, losing and chatting with the Boys: Tom, Chris and Phil. Ria provides constant energy and entertainment and it was the perfect reunion moment.

Wonderful to know that some things don't change and though only a 1/yr occasion nowadays (unfortunately, but such is the reality when living in China) seeing friends is what life is about, not emails! Thankfully the unmarried of us were still the majority (not the case at the bigger reunion last weekend that I missed) but those of us who were single were not! Do young British people get married any more? In lesser numbers than our parents' generation, but they definitely do.

Awaking to find last night's clothes on the floor not smelling of smoke was a great start to a sunny day and trip home via Ian & Hannah's in Stourbridge. Smoke-free nightlife is fantastic -though now high streets are distinguished by small groups shivering outside the entrance smoking. I should have invested in the companies that sell big outdoor heaters that many bars have bought. Even the pubs in Stourbridge (where i seem to spend far too much time, and where Ian seems to live!) have them!

in the Netherlands

First stop off the airplane was the theatre in London and the next day a 30 min flight to Rotterdam in the Netherlands. A city of boring buildings spiced up with fancy architecture; few bikes, no taxis but plenty of cars; fantastically designed museums, great nightlife, loads of shops and an interesting history (due to the important role om Rotterdam's massive port). It is more pretty in the evenings but the Dutch serve their lagers way too small! I recommend the maritime museum and the historical museum, even though understanding dutch would be helpful sometimes. After a weekend catching up with Bee, who is still in AIESEC, and a night out in bars and casinos, it was time to go to Delft.

Delft is, in MHO (My Humble Opinion) the 2nd prettiest place in continental Europe after Brugges in Belgium with canals, bridges, churches, stately homes, plenty of cafes and many beautiful buildings untouched for centuries. There are lovely patisseries and shops, very few people and it is so unspoilt despite the occasional car. Fortunately (especially during the week) the town still feels lived in and used, and not a tourist trap -whoever travels to NL and visits anywhere apart from Amsterdam?

Next, an afternoon in the Hague: old town with plenty of high end shops and restaurants and the Parliament building with only 1 police car and a publicly used passageway going right through it -rather a contrast to London! Unfortunately the International Court of Justice tours were booked up, but it and many other parts of the city all look grand and impressive. In one of the attractions, Maturodam (a made-up 1/25 size Dutch town) I saw detailed reconstructions of all the famous buildings and landscapes in the Netherlands. Everything, like wedding processions, trains, funfairs and opera houses actually work too! It was possibly even more impressive than Beckinscott in the uk, although not as pretty.

Netherlands is strikingly similar to England in terms of suburbia with identical styles of road signs, housing, shops etc. Amsterdam's suburbs are just as mundane, which i got to experience due to the location of Plan's office there where I was working for 3 days. Of course central, historic Amsterdam is just stunning, a very beautiful, romantic place. Actually its bars, red light district etc all seemed more tame compared to my last visit 6+yrs ago.

It is quite bizarre experiencing walking around a western city seeing girls parading themselves in shop windows, literally. I believe legalising prostitution, taxing it, monitoring it is better for prostitutes but I don't agree with such public displays which really does demote Women and make them seem like objects available to rent/buy/use instead of as people offering a service. I wonder what the background of the prostitutes is, since it is legal and presumably well-paid do some women see it as a viable career option, or is it more of a last-chance job for those who have no other options, which is the image of such a profession in the UK, even if not the reality?

Tuesday, January 29, 2008

Lots of people and very bad weather

In what is often declared as the world's biggest single migration event, the returning home of tens of millions (over 200 million according to CNN) of chinese to spend chinese new year with their families is quite something.

It is, in truth, the only important day in the calendar for this non-religious population and for a month every school closes; for a week every office closes. It is so hard to get tickets on the thousands of trains (of which extra trains are laid on, with extra carriages) getting one is THE challenge of the year. Many make massive profits from selling tickets if they have friends working in stations or ticket agencies; employers that can help get such tickets become employer of choice. In some cases employers hire coaches for their employees (this helps ensure their migrant workers return after the holiday too) and in rare cases some have even chartered flights (although with the PR this generosity gets in the papers it is probably worth it!).

Since i was in Shanghai for the weekend, last night i was at Shanghai station -possibly the busiest in the country. It very mush resembled a football match since there were tens of thousands of people. But this year is special.

Shanghai is (like more than half of China) buried in a foot of snow meaning trains are all late (flights too) so there were many many ppl who, not wanting to miss their prized train, had no clue when the train was going but were carrying babies and their worldly goods around fighting to speak to the hundreds of police that blocked the entrance.

Despite my feet being run over 20 times by suitcases i got through to 1 such officer to be told the soft sleeper train i had (1st class basically as all other tickets are sold out) was going to be 4 hrs late. Frustrated but not too distraught i weighed up my options... what to do for 4 hours, what meetings to rearrange that i'd miss etc.

Then, aware of the sketchiness of the info i'd got and thinking a 1st class train to Beijing ought to be the least affected, i struggled to another officer manning the barrier only to receive a 'i'll find out' reply whilst looking at his mobile phone. 10 minutes later i asked a neighbouring officer who beckoned me through. In the end my train only left 4 minutes late...with me on it, but plenty of others not.

It was quite an experience because tensions were very high outside the station. Whenever someone was let in, over the barrier (literally) after shoving their ticket in an officer's face, everyone else surged forward not knowing why the other was let in..or what train was actually leaving. The lack of information, the weather, the occasion, the barrier, the huge mass of people (many with babies) and all the luggage made for a scary situation. It is one probably happening all across the country. I hope nothing too bad happens!

p.s. there are articles saying much of China has run out of power because of a lack of coal; that coal being exported has been turned around and ordered back to port and so on. It is a big problem. Coal mines have been closed down because of health and safety problems; it is very cold so more coal is needed as heating; the roads are closed making it hard to transport coal to the areas that need it. The weather has cost over 20 lives and 2 billion USD of damage SO FAR with worst weather predicted to come.

Tuesday, January 22, 2008

its cold. its time to pop home

Its minus something degrees and the it feels like it. There is snow outside; though it snows rarely, the snow does not go away. This year, the snow has not turned black like it usually does, adding to my belief that the pollution in Beijing is getting better, even though plenty of people disagree with me.

It is 2008 yet everyone is thinking about Chinese new year (6-7 feb) and especially about what to do or where to go. Its cold in most of China and heading to the South or to SE Asia is expensive, none-the-less, everyone finds their way. Even if that way is by pretending to be a japanese person to buy your tickets to/from japan (as some of my friends are doing), or if it means taking days off before and after the holiday to get cheaper flights. Anyway, this week train tickets became impossible to buy -and thus the holiday season must be upon us.

The ski season has been a good one. Nan Shan resort has doubled in size compared to last year, including a black run that is well worth the 1 hour drive from Beijing and 20 pounds cost (all included); Hou Hai is packed full of people ice skating/cycling/chairing, as are countless other frozen lakes. I've been skiing twice and ice skating twice. I also organised a Bachelor party last Saturday where plenty of Russians were surprised at the 15 chinese 22 yr olds (mostly women) who turned up at Treasure Island. Leon got 5 lap dances and i think that qualifies as a successful Bachelor party, even though the women were not naked!

We are supposed to be moving office soon, since I have been relegated to the conference table, for lack of space and other staff are moving to Beijing too; my flights home are booked (1st feb-2nd march) and plans are afoot to go to Netherlands, Manchester, Woking, Camden and various other places for either work or pleasure. Tonight i warmed up for returning to London with a fancy Western meal (Alameda -Brazilian restaurant with fantastic 2 course stake meals with wine for under 20 pounds) and organised my trip this weekend to Shanghai.

It no longer feels strange to go to Shanghai for the weekend, as Shanghai feels so close; yet whilst booking flights to Rotterdam and possibly Prague or Berlin, I felt so excited to be going to these exciting places. Though i have been there before, and each is only a 1-2 hr flight away from london and cheaper to get to than Shanghai, they feel like different countries...different languages, cultures and people in each.

I can see why Europe is so attractive and how easy it is to get bored traveling in China. It takes so long and costs to much to see something that is not really that exciting or that different. I can see why Australians love the UK after spending 5 hours flying across their own country without anything changing at all! Europe is a special place and I really enjoyed my trip to Belgium 2 years ago. This time it will be good to not just drink more beer and eat more chocolate but to get back in touch with the concept of diversity, multiculturalism etc along with the issues of terrorism, immigration, politics, war and so many other concepts that are just barely existing in China. There are too many other issues; though some are constant here and in Europe: Climate Change being, possibly, the most pressing one.

For those in China, see you in 6 weeks; for those in the UK, see you in 2 weeks. For the rest of you, come visit!

Sunday, January 13, 2008

The Philippines

In a country full of churches, it was only apt that on a rather unpleasant ferry ride, our neighbour was a Jehova's witness. As much as i would have loved to debate with him, especially after he started sprouting about the next world (have you given up on this world already?), it was much easier to feign disinterest and attempt to sleep. The in-ferry movie service included a short intro about God keeping us safe, hinting as to the importance of religion in the country.

Though it does not compare to Thailand, where almost the entire population is rather devoutly Buddhist, Thailand is strongly Catholic... and this has had a dramatic impact on the country's population which is soaring...still. In 2000, Manilla even effectively banned the use of contraception! Although the Mayor who implemented that has now finished his term, many public officials, including the new Mayor and the President still prefer to promote natural fmaily planning methods that are acceptable to the Church. You wouldn't catch the Buddhists doing that in Thailand, where the birth rate is almost half what it is in the Philippines. It is a real shame, but it undeniably will ensure the country remains poor for a long time to come... and might get poorer if it is unable to feed, house etc. its population!

Anyway, after the diving and the beaches it was time for.. more diving, more beaches and some pool time as well as making use of the deserted island roads to cruise around on a scooter, check out the island and the villages and, whilst relaxing at the rather up-market resort, enjoy the restaurant and the bar. It seemed plenty of other Brits had the same idea as us -spending 10 days in 5 pound huts and then a couple of days in 25 pound hotels :)

We will definitely go back because of the friendly people, the laid back atmosphere, the beautiful scenery, the mixture of things to do there, the convenience of transportation and language, the low prices, the great weather..... the list goes on. In return i am expecting something from the Philippine Tourism Board!

Happy New Year to you all. It is THE year, 2008. The most important year in 5,000 years of Chinese history. And if you do not know why, you must be living your life on a remote island in the Philippines -but, no doubt, you will soon find out!

Saturday, January 12, 2008

With the fishies

We made it to Kookoo's nest. From Nuts Huts it took a 15 min boat ride, 45 minute Jeepney ride, 2 hour boat ride, 1 hour bus ride, 45 minutes on a motorbike and a 10 minute walk down 108 steps. It was worth it.

A private little cove with a beach, 4 cottages, a small restaurant that the owners and the staff serve up fantastic food on, a little jetty for the motor boat and... 2 fantastic owners: Nickie and Jamie. A sense of humour was not all they had... Jamie even certified me as a PADI Scuba Diver. So finally, 10 years after starting to dive in the UK, i have a qualification. Though, don't go there expecting a party -just expect to relax with wonderful weather all year around (they have their own micro-climate as they are often sheltered from the winds/rain).

I have to say, having dived/snorkeled in Israel, France, China, Turkey, Thailand and elsewhere (not least in the English Channel!), the Philippines is one of the best places to find great coral and fantastic fish so accessibly. Kookoo's nest has their own house reef and is the perfect place to dive. Nearby is Apo island where i dived with Turtles that were almost as big as me and all kinds of fishy creatures.

I even have the 'i dived Apo' t-shirt to prove it!

Saturday, December 29, 2007

I'm not a Monkey!

After arriving in Bohol we went via taxi and motorboat up a river to 'Nuts Huts', a typical backpacker place in the jungle, quite literally. We grabbed 1 of the 12 cottages by the river and proceeded to befriend the Belgium owners and other guests. The first activity was a swim in the river and to the waterfall nearby, followed by relaxing in the hammocks and enjoying the 30 degree heat, cold beers and yummy fusion food.

After a night on a comfy mattress -it really is just China alone that has awful mattresses- and without too many mosquitos, the next day beckoned as we cycled to the Tarsier Sanctuary, which is quoted as the 'smallest monkey in the world' -but it is not a monkey. It is small primate though, about the size of a small bird. It has massive eyes as it hunts in the dark and is quite cute, apart from when baring its teeth when one moves one's hand too close whilst trying to take a photo to compare the size of the hand with the Tarsier!

The little guys are adorable and thankfully expanding their population as their habitat is slowly regrowing after the forest's destruction (due to the increase in land needed for agricultural and limber trade). The bike ride continued via a beach through the countryside to the middle of a forest, before backtracking out of the forest (useless instructions!) to the main road and back to the 'Huts'.

The scenery in rural Philippines is not so different to the rest of South East Asia with plenty of rice paddies, jungle, adorable kids everywhere and so on. There are also a plethora of religious buildings such as churches, chapels and other religious sects's buildings (something inherited from the Americans I think when they ran the country for a few decades around the 2nd World War, building on the Spanish's Catholicism left over from Colonial times). Delighfully though the local's houses are built from 'nippa'. bamboo, wood etc which make them very pretty, environmentally friendly and apt for the environment. And, our buddies from coca-cola, have kept plenty of tiny stores stocked full -indeed, almost 1 house in 10 is also a micro-store!

Yesterday we motorbiked 150km or so up and down, primarily to see the 'chocolate hills', though in the current rainy season they are more green than chocolate colour -still pretty though... seeing hundreds of tiny 30m or so hills dotting the countryside. I also can declare that Philippino massages are nice and relaxing, comparing favourable with others across SE Asia.

Today we hiked up through the jungle, swam over 500m (impressive for me) in the river, chatted with some Peacecorps volunteers and relaxed in the huts. All that remains is to enjoy the stars and get up at 5am to get to the next place -on the beach, in time to spend New Years there. I am still getting over spending Christmas in the sun, let alone New Years on a beach!

p.s. if you are smiling wryly about the implications of the title of this post and my hairy arms... you are just immature, and succumbing to my ability to make a joke that everyone will get -so you are not clever!! Anyway, it might make you smirk as much as the rubbish joke in the Christmas cracker :)

Unusual transport

After scraping onto our flight out of Hong Kong (since they moved the flight forward 20 minutes so we actualy arrived 10 minutes after check-in closed and had to depend on a kind lady from another desk to print us a ticket and take us through security, whilst abandoning penkinfes etc in order to get our backpacks on as hand luggage, as we could not check them in), me and Dad ended up in Cebu, the second biggest city in the philippines, on Xmas Day.

There is not much going for the city, apart from the interesting insight into Urban living with relativlely low quality housing in most of the city apart from some bad slum areas, and the gated 'beverley hills' area (it is actually called that!) above the city, for the rich to look down upon everyone else (or so it seemed). It was our first introduction to the 'Jeepney' a cross between a Jeep and a bus, which is highly decorated by their owners with all kinds of sporty/religious/crazy painted designs and other things stuck on them.

I did not what to expect from the Philippines, as it is hardly high up the list of visitors' destinations. I guess it is poorer than i imagined and Cebu is quite similar to many run-down chinese towns with some exceptions -like the bizarre lack of eating places in the Philippines and the dominance of English signage everywhere, even though most local people use their local dialect for every day conversations (their English tends to be quite good though). Coca-cola has definitely used its US history and brand to its advantage with Coke or Sprite seemingly taking up half of the area's consumer spending (along with beer)!

After a day in Cebu we jumped ship for the island of Bohol to a scene of even crazier transportation options; whose name i am not even sure of. Nonetheless they are fundamentally a motorbike with sidecar, though modified somewhat as the metal roof/windows look a bit like something from a military vehicle with small windows and the inevitable painted cusomization of the vehicles!

Wednesday, December 12, 2007

treasure, lost jobs and snow

2 weeks ago, after a night out at treasure island (nothing too hard core, but it is no secret the treasure is the Russian women on stage dancing) we failed to go skiing and ended up playing golf instead. Fortunately this was only at a driving range to save too much embarrassment since it was the first time I had ever picked up a golf club. Personally I think it was more fun, and much cheaper and easier, to just play golf on the Wii (although more tiring playing on the Wii!).

Last weekend we did manage to go skiing, since the night before we had a quiet one in, playing Risk; though actually it did get rather heated, and we contemplated filming it for youtube or a reality TV show! Despite choosing the closest ski resort to downtown Beijing, at only 45 minutes drive, it was actually incredibly good. The fake snow was top quality and they had several runs that allowed us to get some decent speed as well as plenty of ramps and moguls which were too demanding for me and most others that were attempting to go down them.

In fact, the observation was made, on reflection from looking at the photos, quite how i managed to move my arms and legs around so fast and so much whilst attempting to get 50cm in the air off of a jump. Well, I did, and it looked spectacular, if not elegant. It was, though, quite bizarre skiing on perfect white snow whilst all around was greyish-brown countryside and a few miles away the city of Miyun and some sort of smog/cloud enveloping it. Ironically it did then snow in Beijing the next day!

On the topic of skiing and the related issue of climate change (apparently the Scottish ski slopes are no longer in business any more, not that many Southerners, like me, ever considered them in business!), China is, as you are probably reading whilst the Bali UN negotiations take place at the center, along with the USA. Thus it will be interesting to see what China is forced to do... it has said it will not even consider trying to reduce its total carbon footprint until at least 2020 (its current promises are to be more energy efficient to emit less carbon)... but all of a sudden China is feeling the impact of climate change and might not be able to wait that long.

The latest (and hopefully last) update on the taxi incident is as follows:
-The story made it into the provincial newspaper
-The taxi company (or city taxi authority) sent me a 3 page apology by fax explaining that the taxi driver had lost his taxi license and been fined about 60 pounds
-The local TV station started a minor investigation into the issue of rip-off taxi drivers (it is not just us that got ripped off).

Now, on one hand we feel very bad for the taxi driver, since he did not do anything horrendously wrong (he just lied and then tried to ask for more money) and probably did not deserve to lose his job. On the other hand, the taxi drivers in Yulin are known to be unkind and an example needs to be set (even if they decide the 'foreign friend' should be the excuse needed to do it). Then i wondered what could i do to try to get him his job back, and figured... not much, since the taxi company would not do that, as it would lose face and it might have other knock-on effects. I mean, no-one ever thought this fiasco would arise in the first place, and i do not want it going on any longer or taking any other twists really!

Thursday, November 29, 2007

Famous

Although the purpose of the journalist's trip was to accompany one of our sponsoring companies on a visit to the villages they are funding a water project in, the journalist was more interested in the story of how the taxi driver screwed me and a colleague. Thus the website for Yulin City, in Shaanxi province has covers the story (in Chinese), but there is a photo.

Well, maybe famous is not quite the right word. Nonetheless yulin is an interesting city; in a poor area of China, half of it is desert and the city could not be much further from the sea. However Yulin is blessed with natural resources and going there is like going to California during the gold rush.

Although the average person in the countryside 5 miles away earns less than 1 USD a day, Yulin is getting a new airport, has 6 line highways stretching through the desert, has a brand new 15 story government building and countless other 30 story hotels and apartment complexes. Fortunately there is some knock-on effect for the poor (it seems), how much of the tax money goes to help them though is another question... Then there is the number of small companies that (almost literally) hire a digger and start digging up coal, bribing a local official to print the required certificate the next day if they find something. It is a city whereby coal and gas are cheaper than water.

Actually one of the highlights of the trip was visiting one family whose grandparents were in their 90s as the grandmother had bound feet. When she was a child (and this practice continued for hundreds of years, only ending about 50+ years ago) it was believed that a woman was more beautiful if she had small feet, so girls wrapped their feet in bandages to make the toes grow towards the heel in a 'n' shape. In some cases the toes would reach the heel, of course totally destroying the bone structure of the women who would walk around in agony for the rest of their lives. This lady (right) is already wearing a child's shoe and still her foot does not fill most of it (she walks on her tiptoes).

Sunday, November 18, 2007

winter and the olympics

Winter is well and truly here which means the big coats are out; it also means the babies are all wrapped up in 6 layers of clothes and look more like telly tubbies than people. Every time i see the little bundles i struggle not to laugh, not because the babies are wrapped up warm, which is sensible, but that the parents still make their kids wear the trousers (that all Chinese babies wear) with a slit under the crotch, so babies can easily do their thing anywhere, anytime (and they do, even at bus stops or on trains, as i have witnessed -beware!). Thus the little babies' bums are still freezing to death, and i wonder what the impact is on their future abilities to reproduce!

The 5-a-side sunday football league finishes the autumn term next sunday, though i will miss it as i'll be working in the countryside. Today was not a good end to the season, personally. I did manage to score 1 out of my 10 or more chances and we lost both games, including to the Iranian Embassy team who are top of the group with some skillful players and elegant passing.
No comments about our team's abilities, except most weeks we struggle to get 5 people out of bed from the night before!

This week i had a thought, what will China be like after the Olympics? Yes, there are other big events (the World Expo in Shanghai) and possibly the World Cup and other activities, but is there much bigger than the Olympics? I am sure many people will prefer to take their own lives rather than continue to live after the Olympics. It has gone beyond mere government sponsored patriotism to some kind of a cult. At first it is just used by every single organisation to market something somehow, then it becomes mentioned in almost every single press release about anthing at all, because next summer is 'the' date that matters... will the charity law change by then? will the media law be revoked afterwards? will the subway lines be finished in time? will kids ever play sport ever again?

Yesterday morning was a small environmental awareness event in a park near the Forbidden City, led by a group who campaign for a 'green olympics' -what will they do in 10 months? Next we went to a famous lake next door, which is well and truly on the tourist map, and found, to our shock, a newly installed disabled chair lift in one of the old stone structures. Now, the fact that we were so surprised should make readers aware that i have never seen any such chair lift in Beijing ever before. Even subway stations fail to have any elevators and though most have escalators sometimes, 95% of the Beijing stations still have stairs at some point from the train to the exit. The poor Paralympians who come next summer will not see too much of Beijing it seems!

After 3 weeks in Beijing including a trip to the capital club (on the top of a skycraper) where, for a change, i could actually see the view, I am off travelling from wednesday for a couple of weeks. By the time i am back it will almost be time for some more birthday ice skating and christmas/new year in the Philippines. 4 months of winter to go...

Saturday, November 03, 2007

Success at work

On Friday was the launch of our 9 million USD partnership with Nokia China; so it was sort of a big deal, with media etc. The highlight was the ice mountain of ice being smashed in order to release the 'love' inside (i.e. let the potential of rural children be released) and the lowlight was when one of the pretty ladies on stage feinted :(. Still I can claim some responsibility for the partnership (on my CV!) and we are happy with the money contribution (And are hoping to develop other elements of the partnership in the next couple of months) and hope to leverage the partnership to raise our profile. Plan is the most unknown of all organisations unfortunately!

On Saturday i went to watch a Chinese band playing in a bar. The warm-up band was excellent (soft-rock) and the main band were pretty good too, though different. They mix rock with a traditional old people's singing style; they also like wearing their underwear on stage and the singer's does a sort of Marilyn Manson by using make-up on his face.

Today is wonderful blue sky: Beijing is definitely getting better, even if there were a couple of bad days last week. The previous week I was in Shanghai, again blown away by its pomp, skyscrapers and trendy drinking options. Read 'trendy', think 'expensive' but that is Shanghai for you!

I was also in Suzhou where a few months ago their (famous) lake was a big cess pit due to industrial waste discharge leading to an algae explosion and all sorts. It was so bad the PM of China said something had to be done. Eventually it seems something was done (though probably only through the cheapest, temporary solution) and thus the government put on a conference about Corporate Responsibility including a trip on the lake. I could not make the boat trip unfortunately, but at least there was no subtlety about the motivations for the conference! Apparently, it will cost 14 billion USD to solve the problem long-term. Now that is a lot of money to pay for a mess caused by irresponsible companies polluting the lake... who will presumably not be putting in towards that cost!

And, i have no travel plans for at least 2 more weeks; which must be a first in 2007!