just watched Narnia (the chornicles of: the lion, the witch and the wardrobe) and felt like an 8 year old again. It has been about 15 years since i read several of those books. My memory is generally crap, but i remembered loving the books and so watched the films really hoping not to be disappointed.
Overall, it was very good. There are always problems squeezing long books into 2 hour films! It does remind me of being young. I am thinking back to when I was a librarian in St Johns School, Northwood (where i went to school from about age 10-13), mostly so in the winter we could stay inside during 'break' and play on the computer. Actually, at that time the computer was so old it had no hard drive -everything was saved on a big ass thing that might be called a 7 inch disk or something. all we did was create simple programmes to chase dots around the screen i think..
although i do feel quite young (not much responsibility, not earning much money, having fun) I guess its not quite the same as back then, wearing a purple blazer (hmm), playing British bulldog in the playground (before it was banned), playing football with the plastic balls with holes in them and even going to art class. aah, they were the days... of parents evenings, hanging around the playground waiting to be picked up by parents and having homework to do!
life in china is somewhat the opposite.. when kids are young they are forced to work really hard, start school ridiculously early in the morning and study all the time... their dream: to get into (prefereably a good) university. once in, they just relax and chill. Though they will compete to work for the big multinationals, they know they will not have to worry about earning a few USD a day, and they will be able to take advantage of china's economic growth.
I forget how few univerity places there are here (limited by money needed to pay for them and actual number of places ) -but i learned today something new about Leon (my chinese room-mate/boss) who has travelled to Europe more than twice and India twice, and who will have very little problem earning at least 5,000 rmb a month when he starts work. It bought me back to reality that his cousins are earning 350 rmb basic a month (plus commission if he rents out any apartments), 800 rmb a month and 2,000 rmb a month. None of them went to university and he is the one hope for his entire family... not like he acts like it that much :) [oh, and he is from Beijing, not the countryside]
oh, and if you have time, there are some very funny (not rude) jokes here: http://www.adamsmith.org/blog/index.php/blog/category/select/Humour/.
Example 1: "A drunk stood at the vending machine putting money in the slot and collecting can after can after can of Coke. The man behind him grew more and more impatient. "For heaven's sake, hurry up!" he shouted. The drunk replied, "Not while I'm winning!""
Example 2:"A man at the airline counter told the assistant, "I'd like this bag to go to Berlin, this one to California, and this one to London." The person on the desk told him, "I'm sorry sir. We can't do that." "Nonsense," replied the man. "That's what you did last time I flew with you.""
Tuesday, March 21, 2006
Tuesday, March 14, 2006
What I know about China know
impossible to summarise but it includes:
-poverty and wealth issues
-massive cities, traffic, pollution, energy and population issues (60% of 1.3 bn people still live in coutryside but by 2020, it might be only 30 or 40%)
-migrant workers
-chinese language (1-2,000 words), about half of China visited, country as cold as siberia and as hot as thailand, as dusty as the sahara and as wet as pakistan, as high as the himalayas and so wide it would take 3 days by train from beijing to west china
-big: city sizes, buildings, government projects, number of people learning english yet number of people who cannot speak a word of english, so big there are 50 or so 'minorities' and langauges so diverse that cantonese is as different to mandarin as french is to english, that shanghainese as different as irish is to english (and the shanghainese and bejingese dislike each other more than the french and the english!)
-chinese festivals, history, politics, businesses (taking over the World)
-tibet being 'liberated' by china about 50 years ago and taiwan still being a 'province' of china. The Vatican not talking to Beijing (but Taipai), but that China replaced Taiwan in Security Council, yet both are members of the WTO
-that over 200 million people have been lifted from poverty, that over 300 million have mobile phones, that satellite dishes can be found everywhere in the country yet foreign TV on the cable stations goes blank when certain topics are discussed.
-that chinese people are very logical, very family orientated, non-religious, have great and hugely diverse food including regional variations and can have more that 1 child if both parents are single children or if they are a farming family or can pay a big fine!
-that some goods are 10 times cheaper than the UK (local bus travel or rice) but other things are almost the same (computers or mobile phones) and others more expensive (luxury cars or jewellery) but that fakes are everywhere.
and so so so so so so so so so so much more!
but what do other foreigners that come to china for 1 week, or that never come to china and maybe just hear about china in the news, or maybe don't even do that.. what do they know? What do the people who are making decisions about politics or business with china actually know about china?
and i still know so little about china: a novice am i, to learn more must i, might a successful future depend (as Yoday might say!)
-poverty and wealth issues
-massive cities, traffic, pollution, energy and population issues (60% of 1.3 bn people still live in coutryside but by 2020, it might be only 30 or 40%)
-migrant workers
-chinese language (1-2,000 words), about half of China visited, country as cold as siberia and as hot as thailand, as dusty as the sahara and as wet as pakistan, as high as the himalayas and so wide it would take 3 days by train from beijing to west china
-big: city sizes, buildings, government projects, number of people learning english yet number of people who cannot speak a word of english, so big there are 50 or so 'minorities' and langauges so diverse that cantonese is as different to mandarin as french is to english, that shanghainese as different as irish is to english (and the shanghainese and bejingese dislike each other more than the french and the english!)
-chinese festivals, history, politics, businesses (taking over the World)
-tibet being 'liberated' by china about 50 years ago and taiwan still being a 'province' of china. The Vatican not talking to Beijing (but Taipai), but that China replaced Taiwan in Security Council, yet both are members of the WTO
-that over 200 million people have been lifted from poverty, that over 300 million have mobile phones, that satellite dishes can be found everywhere in the country yet foreign TV on the cable stations goes blank when certain topics are discussed.
-that chinese people are very logical, very family orientated, non-religious, have great and hugely diverse food including regional variations and can have more that 1 child if both parents are single children or if they are a farming family or can pay a big fine!
-that some goods are 10 times cheaper than the UK (local bus travel or rice) but other things are almost the same (computers or mobile phones) and others more expensive (luxury cars or jewellery) but that fakes are everywhere.
and so so so so so so so so so so much more!
but what do other foreigners that come to china for 1 week, or that never come to china and maybe just hear about china in the news, or maybe don't even do that.. what do they know? What do the people who are making decisions about politics or business with china actually know about china?
and i still know so little about china: a novice am i, to learn more must i, might a successful future depend (as Yoday might say!)
What I knew about China before I came here
-Communism and Mao, but maybe the country is better described as socialist that currently being communist
-Tiananmen square, something about pro-democracy protestors dying
-Big economy and factory of the world
-great wall (can be seen from space)
-hong kong given back to China in 1997
-beijing is the capital and shanghai has lots of skyscrapers
-biggest population in the World
-1 child policy
-tea and china
then i read some books in the 2 weeks before I came here and learnt about
-the cultural revolution
-taiwan
-tibet
-the great leap forward
-deng xiaoping and the opening up period
-WTO accession and Olympics in 2008
-results of 1 child policy, male-preference for children and ageing on society
...and some other things
if i think of some more things that i used to know then i will change this blog.
-Tiananmen square, something about pro-democracy protestors dying
-Big economy and factory of the world
-great wall (can be seen from space)
-hong kong given back to China in 1997
-beijing is the capital and shanghai has lots of skyscrapers
-biggest population in the World
-1 child policy
-tea and china
then i read some books in the 2 weeks before I came here and learnt about
-the cultural revolution
-taiwan
-tibet
-the great leap forward
-deng xiaoping and the opening up period
-WTO accession and Olympics in 2008
-results of 1 child policy, male-preference for children and ageing on society
...and some other things
if i think of some more things that i used to know then i will change this blog.
Dinner last night
Beijing is warming up, finally. Its 15-20 degrees this week (though next week might go back down to 10 degress), so it looks like the jackets can go away and the sweatshirts can be used less often.
Yesterday 8 of us has dinner, which I want to talk about since it was interesting. There is Nico (chinese) who is very much aware of internet censorship but not of some other issues, then there is Kim (chinese) who has studied journalism but less aware of these issues and very much trustworthy of the government in most respects, then there is Dexter (chinese) who is quite western minded in knowing all the kind of stuff the government does but not caring that much. We also had me who reads about all kinds of stuff about all the bad and good things the crappy british and chinese governments are up to, then there is Leon (Chinese) who was sort of in the middle..maybe more like Dexter though, then there is Peter (Slovakian) who has not been reading that much stuff about these topics so was more quiet and 'learning'. The last 2 were Yuan and Susan, who are both Chinese and also in the 'listening and learning' mode.
The conversation was interesting because it covered censorship in China, Falun Gong, Single Child policy, cultural revolution and also the communist party (like membership fees etc). What was interesting was that from my point of view A was obvious, but from the chinese point of view (eg. Kim) B was obvious.. and then we were all talking about the middle line and discussing. So for example on the internet we all pretty much agreed, but some of us were not aware of the censorship. For Falun Gong, the conversation got most interesting since the chinese believed it was a religious sect that told its followers that suicide is a good thing. The chinese knew a lot about the case of someone setting themselves on fire in tiananmen square for example, but then also had friends who had (or still are, underground somewhat) in falun gong (now totally banned in China) and they said they knew about this 'command?' of suicide being a good thing and leading you to a better life, but just chose not to follow that 'command?'
I was under the belief that falun gong was just like meditation rather than so religious that it included instructions about death etc. My knowledgeis mostly based on western media and falun gong's protests on UK campuses against the Chinese government imprisoning Chinese practioners of falun gong. the chinese knowledge was mostly from chinese media and the few friends they knew (or friends of friends) involved in it.
Which of us is right, I have no idea. It does not bother me that much; but it is interesting how perspectives can be so different. I was though pretty adamant in creating the comparison between falun gong and islam. I don't believe every muslim wants to commit suicide, but a few fanatical and misguided people do (eg. 9/11) and so maybe falun gong is the same. Does this mean it should be banned in China though? Well the chinese know that some strange sects in USA are banned (the ones that got 60 students into a house to burn themselves up in a suicide pact if you remember) for example... and so we all used different comparisons.
The conversation was not as intense as it might sound but nonetheless it was very interesting. And the result was very much that, though AIESEC exchanges people to learn about other cultures, we don't facilitate as much discussion as we should -especially in China. Most Foreigners don't interact with young chinese people or ask them such frank questions.. or if they do, they might not get such frank replies. It's easy to live in a country and with chinese people but still not learn much about the culture or beliefs (especially if you cannot read what is in the chinese media!).
I try to talk to people more nowadays.. what did your parents tell you about the cultural revolution, for example. Interestingly, though many chinese are interested in the rest of the world, no-one ever really asks me any questions about the UK. Maybe they think they know it from the western movies, or think its 'perfect' or something. Sometimes i volunteer information (I think the UK government sucks, is ridiculously undemocratic and also checks every email we send) to encourage conversation, though i do stress that the country is a little democratic, and that most emails are read but nothing happens (unlike china where so many sites are blocked and people sending emails about rural unrest in China have been arrested).
So the lessons are.. know more about the country you are from, learn more about where you go and try to share and discuss more for yours, and others, benefit. I often hark back to the 'old times' (or so i read) where intellectuals would gather and discuss the issues of the day.. hmmm, now it seems more often than not, students just gather for a drink or a chat about the footy ;)
Yesterday 8 of us has dinner, which I want to talk about since it was interesting. There is Nico (chinese) who is very much aware of internet censorship but not of some other issues, then there is Kim (chinese) who has studied journalism but less aware of these issues and very much trustworthy of the government in most respects, then there is Dexter (chinese) who is quite western minded in knowing all the kind of stuff the government does but not caring that much. We also had me who reads about all kinds of stuff about all the bad and good things the crappy british and chinese governments are up to, then there is Leon (Chinese) who was sort of in the middle..maybe more like Dexter though, then there is Peter (Slovakian) who has not been reading that much stuff about these topics so was more quiet and 'learning'. The last 2 were Yuan and Susan, who are both Chinese and also in the 'listening and learning' mode.
The conversation was interesting because it covered censorship in China, Falun Gong, Single Child policy, cultural revolution and also the communist party (like membership fees etc). What was interesting was that from my point of view A was obvious, but from the chinese point of view (eg. Kim) B was obvious.. and then we were all talking about the middle line and discussing. So for example on the internet we all pretty much agreed, but some of us were not aware of the censorship. For Falun Gong, the conversation got most interesting since the chinese believed it was a religious sect that told its followers that suicide is a good thing. The chinese knew a lot about the case of someone setting themselves on fire in tiananmen square for example, but then also had friends who had (or still are, underground somewhat) in falun gong (now totally banned in China) and they said they knew about this 'command?' of suicide being a good thing and leading you to a better life, but just chose not to follow that 'command?'
I was under the belief that falun gong was just like meditation rather than so religious that it included instructions about death etc. My knowledgeis mostly based on western media and falun gong's protests on UK campuses against the Chinese government imprisoning Chinese practioners of falun gong. the chinese knowledge was mostly from chinese media and the few friends they knew (or friends of friends) involved in it.
Which of us is right, I have no idea. It does not bother me that much; but it is interesting how perspectives can be so different. I was though pretty adamant in creating the comparison between falun gong and islam. I don't believe every muslim wants to commit suicide, but a few fanatical and misguided people do (eg. 9/11) and so maybe falun gong is the same. Does this mean it should be banned in China though? Well the chinese know that some strange sects in USA are banned (the ones that got 60 students into a house to burn themselves up in a suicide pact if you remember) for example... and so we all used different comparisons.
The conversation was not as intense as it might sound but nonetheless it was very interesting. And the result was very much that, though AIESEC exchanges people to learn about other cultures, we don't facilitate as much discussion as we should -especially in China. Most Foreigners don't interact with young chinese people or ask them such frank questions.. or if they do, they might not get such frank replies. It's easy to live in a country and with chinese people but still not learn much about the culture or beliefs (especially if you cannot read what is in the chinese media!).
I try to talk to people more nowadays.. what did your parents tell you about the cultural revolution, for example. Interestingly, though many chinese are interested in the rest of the world, no-one ever really asks me any questions about the UK. Maybe they think they know it from the western movies, or think its 'perfect' or something. Sometimes i volunteer information (I think the UK government sucks, is ridiculously undemocratic and also checks every email we send) to encourage conversation, though i do stress that the country is a little democratic, and that most emails are read but nothing happens (unlike china where so many sites are blocked and people sending emails about rural unrest in China have been arrested).
So the lessons are.. know more about the country you are from, learn more about where you go and try to share and discuss more for yours, and others, benefit. I often hark back to the 'old times' (or so i read) where intellectuals would gather and discuss the issues of the day.. hmmm, now it seems more often than not, students just gather for a drink or a chat about the footy ;)
Friday, March 10, 2006
Life in the office
For those who don't know since August last year when I started working full-time for AIESEC here, I have been sharing a bedroom with 3 other guys (Leon -Chinese, Peter -Slovakian and Pierre -Indian) and the appartment with 2 girls in the other bedroom (Primrose -Taiwanese and Kim -Chinese). We have a small living room with 1 double couch and 2 singles; a small kitchen including a microwave, washing machine and hob; a larger living room used as the office with 6 desks for us to work and 1 other desk for the printer and spare computer (for the students to use when they come in occasionally).
Most of the time we work in the office though often switch to the smaller living room for a break on our poor bums -we have wireless internet :-) (Which is why I cannot wait for the summer so I can sit outside again and still work for a couple of hours of battery life since it reaches into the play area outside the building. Since last month 5 of the 7 people who will replace us have been selected and the ones in China often come into the office (some are also internationals)... so they might stay over, or other students might stay over on the couch (or any spare beds if some of us are on business trips) if they come over to party or work.
It makes for an unusual working environment which might be kind of typical for developing AIESEC offices around the World and small NGOs in China, but is not typical of China by any means. (oh, we have a bathroom too -just 1, but it has a n awesome power shower and a real toilet, though still the toilet paper must go in the bin, not down the toilet). It means I have learned more about working in a cross cultural team especially since we have such different working styles and also live so closely together.. the appartment is not normally clean since it gets dirty so quickly!
I guess this leads to its problems.. sometimes professional and personal feelings can't be kept secret, or if you disagree over the decision of something, then you can't 'go home and forget about it' for example. But it also means you get to spend a lot of time with my colleagues who i know really well and get on with so well. I get to know more about their culture and different backgrounds and we feel like a very close team (although there are still, like every team, challenges in communication sometimes).
Mostly we have meetings at the end of the day or over dinner, or after dinner (or all 3 if its a long meeting!) which means we have more time to work during the daytime; but then less free-time. As my job is to develop knowledge, skills and a passion for responsible leadership and related issues, I have a team of students (1 at each University) responsible for this within their AIESEC branch. I am trying to get out the office as much as possible to meet them and support them in their work. I think this is the best and most important way of making our work more integral to AIESEC's work and how it can work better with other departments in each AIESEC branch. What does this mean?
-lots of travelling on lots of buses!
-lots of cheap meals in students canteens
-getting to know the chinese students better
-opportunities to learn chinese on the bus, or to listen to music/news shows on my IPOD
-a fantastic understanding of china's 3rd ring road and China's bus sytem. Today someone (a local, chinese student) asked me how to get from her university (Renmin) to our office, and I gave her about 4 of the 10 options that i know about!
-achieving more (hopefully!)
So that's an insight into my life. Otherwise I am busy working on programmes, resources and events: meeting people going to conferences to learn and to network and doing a few other things too (like going to Tianjin last weekend to help AIESEC there).
Random comments of the day:
1) every university intranet has a movies or music download section (very official, you have usernames and everything): with the high speed download you can download anything quickly. No need even for the fake DVDs then? Actually the intranet system only has recent movies, so it seems many students are also interested in older movies and foreign movies and buy the DVDs. So Chinese people are 'well watched' and not just Chinese or Western movies.
2) most chinese students spend lots of time on computer games, on computer intranets, bulletin boards, messenging services, proxy servers (to bypass censorship issues or to access international websites sometimes) and doing all kinds of things to their computers. It means that most students are very computer literate. I'm not sure if this is good or not. Its been proven that computer games do help with intelligence (and are motly 'team' games) and it means that the students watch many DVDs to learn about the world and are very fast typists... But then they are accessing banned content through proxies (maybe that's good?) and spending less time studying/reading and not spending any money in the local economy (anything digital is free!)
Most of the time we work in the office though often switch to the smaller living room for a break on our poor bums -we have wireless internet :-) (Which is why I cannot wait for the summer so I can sit outside again and still work for a couple of hours of battery life since it reaches into the play area outside the building. Since last month 5 of the 7 people who will replace us have been selected and the ones in China often come into the office (some are also internationals)... so they might stay over, or other students might stay over on the couch (or any spare beds if some of us are on business trips) if they come over to party or work.
It makes for an unusual working environment which might be kind of typical for developing AIESEC offices around the World and small NGOs in China, but is not typical of China by any means. (oh, we have a bathroom too -just 1, but it has a n awesome power shower and a real toilet, though still the toilet paper must go in the bin, not down the toilet). It means I have learned more about working in a cross cultural team especially since we have such different working styles and also live so closely together.. the appartment is not normally clean since it gets dirty so quickly!
I guess this leads to its problems.. sometimes professional and personal feelings can't be kept secret, or if you disagree over the decision of something, then you can't 'go home and forget about it' for example. But it also means you get to spend a lot of time with my colleagues who i know really well and get on with so well. I get to know more about their culture and different backgrounds and we feel like a very close team (although there are still, like every team, challenges in communication sometimes).
Mostly we have meetings at the end of the day or over dinner, or after dinner (or all 3 if its a long meeting!) which means we have more time to work during the daytime; but then less free-time. As my job is to develop knowledge, skills and a passion for responsible leadership and related issues, I have a team of students (1 at each University) responsible for this within their AIESEC branch. I am trying to get out the office as much as possible to meet them and support them in their work. I think this is the best and most important way of making our work more integral to AIESEC's work and how it can work better with other departments in each AIESEC branch. What does this mean?
-lots of travelling on lots of buses!
-lots of cheap meals in students canteens
-getting to know the chinese students better
-opportunities to learn chinese on the bus, or to listen to music/news shows on my IPOD
-a fantastic understanding of china's 3rd ring road and China's bus sytem. Today someone (a local, chinese student) asked me how to get from her university (Renmin) to our office, and I gave her about 4 of the 10 options that i know about!
-achieving more (hopefully!)
So that's an insight into my life. Otherwise I am busy working on programmes, resources and events: meeting people going to conferences to learn and to network and doing a few other things too (like going to Tianjin last weekend to help AIESEC there).
Random comments of the day:
1) every university intranet has a movies or music download section (very official, you have usernames and everything): with the high speed download you can download anything quickly. No need even for the fake DVDs then? Actually the intranet system only has recent movies, so it seems many students are also interested in older movies and foreign movies and buy the DVDs. So Chinese people are 'well watched' and not just Chinese or Western movies.
2) most chinese students spend lots of time on computer games, on computer intranets, bulletin boards, messenging services, proxy servers (to bypass censorship issues or to access international websites sometimes) and doing all kinds of things to their computers. It means that most students are very computer literate. I'm not sure if this is good or not. Its been proven that computer games do help with intelligence (and are motly 'team' games) and it means that the students watch many DVDs to learn about the world and are very fast typists... But then they are accessing banned content through proxies (maybe that's good?) and spending less time studying/reading and not spending any money in the local economy (anything digital is free!)
Tuesday, March 07, 2006
Life in China
Last week Beijing was confused: it was not sure if it was winter or spring. 1 minute the canals were frozen, the next they were ice-free. one minute it was freezing cold, the next you could bask in the sunshine! Anyway, I think its finally making up its mind and only 1 of the next 15 days should be below 7 degrees.
Endless topics of conversation take place regarding traffic in Beijing -problems, solutions, surviving.. all kinds. Yesterday I forced Leon (1 of my chinese room mates) to look at the beijing subway website to find out when the new lines will open. I heard a rumour line 5 would open soon. Damn, actually it won't open until next summer! And then they will also open lines, 10, 4, 9, 8 and L 1 in the next 12 months before the Olympics. In fact L1 will be the airport shuttle line and will only open 14 days before the Olympics start! Shanghai on the other hand opens about a new line (or extension) every 6 months -much more sensible.
I normally try to get buses before 4pm or after 7pm, then the traffic is not so bad, and its quicker than the subway which we have to get a bus (or 25 min walk) to get to and often change lines to get to ultimate destination (if its near the subway). Now, though, I bought another bike and happily cycle around Beijing. In fact its almost the same as before my bike was nicked last summer -the difference being i am now cycling around the 3rd ring, and not the 4th ring. The 4th ring was built later and is designed for bikes to be able to go above or under trafiic junctions. In fact the 3rd ring is possibly the worst designed road ever. The implications for bikes are that they cannot go over or under traffic junctions but must pile up at every set of traffic lights. Inevitably people will:
-try and dash all the way across when there is a gap in the traffic (rare): all 6 lanes
-try and dash across, but get stuck halfway with a 1.5m long bike sticking out and blocking a couple of lanes
-try to be at the front of the bike queue and thus every new bike arriving at the lights stops in front of the other, ensuring the queue gets longer and longer jutting out and blocking a lane or two (especially the cars trying to turn right)
...and so on..
The other problem is the variation is speeds and type of bikes in Beijing. An entire piece of research could be taken on the kinds of people on bikes and the bikes they have. A summary:
-those pulling their big carts that are like weelbarrows piled up with crockery or something else they will later stop to sell
-those cycling a tricycle type contraction that might be a pancake machine or piled high with cardboard boxes/sofas/scrap wood etc etc
-the old ppl on a normal, crappy, bike going very slowly
-the younger ones talking on their mobiles while wondering all over the cycle lane
-the younger ones on slightly flash bikes (maybe even a racing bike) speeding along
-the various scooters and motorbikes that just get in the way and don't go much faster than a bike
-... and the cars that use the bike lanes when there is so much traffic (or whilst trying to turn down a side road), and that causes the bikes to then have to overtake the said stationary vehicle blocking the bike lane, by veering onto the pavement or into all the other lanes (NB: useless brakes as standard on all bikes)
The other stupid thing are the horrendous number of buses in China (last year they added about 2,000 to the current number -whereas London has about 2,000 in total!) which don't travel in the bike lanes usually, but have to stop there to pick up passengers, forcing bikes to overtake them by going into the normal lanes and forcing cars into fewer lanes or by going on the inside between the bus and the curb (where all the passengers are trying to get on the bus!) Or, if you are me, you also go on the pavement, behind everyone knowing its the quickest and safest option (since stopping and waiting for the bus to leave would just take too long!)
Finally, the bravest people in China are those that are trying to learn English -never afraid to come up to a foreigner to annoy them/befriend them (depending on foreigner's mood!); they would make great salesmen in the UK! I have a few right now who managed to get my number whilst i was in a good mood...whose messages and calls are, well, just....
Endless topics of conversation take place regarding traffic in Beijing -problems, solutions, surviving.. all kinds. Yesterday I forced Leon (1 of my chinese room mates) to look at the beijing subway website to find out when the new lines will open. I heard a rumour line 5 would open soon. Damn, actually it won't open until next summer! And then they will also open lines, 10, 4, 9, 8 and L 1 in the next 12 months before the Olympics. In fact L1 will be the airport shuttle line and will only open 14 days before the Olympics start! Shanghai on the other hand opens about a new line (or extension) every 6 months -much more sensible.
I normally try to get buses before 4pm or after 7pm, then the traffic is not so bad, and its quicker than the subway which we have to get a bus (or 25 min walk) to get to and often change lines to get to ultimate destination (if its near the subway). Now, though, I bought another bike and happily cycle around Beijing. In fact its almost the same as before my bike was nicked last summer -the difference being i am now cycling around the 3rd ring, and not the 4th ring. The 4th ring was built later and is designed for bikes to be able to go above or under trafiic junctions. In fact the 3rd ring is possibly the worst designed road ever. The implications for bikes are that they cannot go over or under traffic junctions but must pile up at every set of traffic lights. Inevitably people will:
-try and dash all the way across when there is a gap in the traffic (rare): all 6 lanes
-try and dash across, but get stuck halfway with a 1.5m long bike sticking out and blocking a couple of lanes
-try to be at the front of the bike queue and thus every new bike arriving at the lights stops in front of the other, ensuring the queue gets longer and longer jutting out and blocking a lane or two (especially the cars trying to turn right)
...and so on..
The other problem is the variation is speeds and type of bikes in Beijing. An entire piece of research could be taken on the kinds of people on bikes and the bikes they have. A summary:
-those pulling their big carts that are like weelbarrows piled up with crockery or something else they will later stop to sell
-those cycling a tricycle type contraction that might be a pancake machine or piled high with cardboard boxes/sofas/scrap wood etc etc
-the old ppl on a normal, crappy, bike going very slowly
-the younger ones talking on their mobiles while wondering all over the cycle lane
-the younger ones on slightly flash bikes (maybe even a racing bike) speeding along
-the various scooters and motorbikes that just get in the way and don't go much faster than a bike
-... and the cars that use the bike lanes when there is so much traffic (or whilst trying to turn down a side road), and that causes the bikes to then have to overtake the said stationary vehicle blocking the bike lane, by veering onto the pavement or into all the other lanes (NB: useless brakes as standard on all bikes)
The other stupid thing are the horrendous number of buses in China (last year they added about 2,000 to the current number -whereas London has about 2,000 in total!) which don't travel in the bike lanes usually, but have to stop there to pick up passengers, forcing bikes to overtake them by going into the normal lanes and forcing cars into fewer lanes or by going on the inside between the bus and the curb (where all the passengers are trying to get on the bus!) Or, if you are me, you also go on the pavement, behind everyone knowing its the quickest and safest option (since stopping and waiting for the bus to leave would just take too long!)
Finally, the bravest people in China are those that are trying to learn English -never afraid to come up to a foreigner to annoy them/befriend them (depending on foreigner's mood!); they would make great salesmen in the UK! I have a few right now who managed to get my number whilst i was in a good mood...whose messages and calls are, well, just....
Sunday, February 12, 2006
Chinese New Year
CNY was never as exciting in Beijing as it is elsewhere around the World ... at least until this year!
Normally CNY is just an excuse to wear red, put red everywhere and spend time with families. The streets become quiet and work stops. Occasionally families trek to a 'Temple Fair' to stuff themselves with food and see a bit of dancing and cultural acting. Its nice, but mellow.
But this year Beijing legalised firecrackers/works throughout the city (with strict controls apparently -most other cities had never outlawed it, and I heard Shanghai was crazy during CNY. But having returned to Beijing on wednesday I had heard a few (very, painfully loud) firecrackers going off every night...and soon came to agree with those who had been in Beijing for the New Year (I was in Bangkok) that after an hour of fun, it becomes annoying.
Tonight was the end of the celebrations: Lantern festival is another time to hang out with the folks and eat Tengyuan (little glutinous balls with hundreds of different falvours, such as sesame or peanut). They're eaten because they are sticky (so families stay together...although just like the west divorce is taking off in China!), because they are sweet (so the new year will be sweet -so similar to Jewsih tradition!) and because they are round, and today is also a full moon. It was also a night to finish off those firecrackers and fireworks.
Watching from the appartment its all quite pretty. But walking around outside you see crazy people setting off fireworks from 16 floor balconies, firing them over the top of roads and letting loose by bus stops. Its tough to concentrate enough just to walk, let alone drive! And then all that's left is a LOT of rubbish left over! Anyway, I can confidently say that the evil spirits were scared away and that (if the theory is true that the more fireworks you light, the more successful your year will be) everyone in Beijing will have a Happy New Year.
And I wish the same to you all too.
Normally CNY is just an excuse to wear red, put red everywhere and spend time with families. The streets become quiet and work stops. Occasionally families trek to a 'Temple Fair' to stuff themselves with food and see a bit of dancing and cultural acting. Its nice, but mellow.
But this year Beijing legalised firecrackers/works throughout the city (with strict controls apparently -most other cities had never outlawed it, and I heard Shanghai was crazy during CNY. But having returned to Beijing on wednesday I had heard a few (very, painfully loud) firecrackers going off every night...and soon came to agree with those who had been in Beijing for the New Year (I was in Bangkok) that after an hour of fun, it becomes annoying.
Tonight was the end of the celebrations: Lantern festival is another time to hang out with the folks and eat Tengyuan (little glutinous balls with hundreds of different falvours, such as sesame or peanut). They're eaten because they are sticky (so families stay together...although just like the west divorce is taking off in China!), because they are sweet (so the new year will be sweet -so similar to Jewsih tradition!) and because they are round, and today is also a full moon. It was also a night to finish off those firecrackers and fireworks.
Watching from the appartment its all quite pretty. But walking around outside you see crazy people setting off fireworks from 16 floor balconies, firing them over the top of roads and letting loose by bus stops. Its tough to concentrate enough just to walk, let alone drive! And then all that's left is a LOT of rubbish left over! Anyway, I can confidently say that the evil spirits were scared away and that (if the theory is true that the more fireworks you light, the more successful your year will be) everyone in Beijing will have a Happy New Year.
And I wish the same to you all too.
Saturday, February 11, 2006
Thailand photos
all up on the imagestation site (see link on right)..here are a selection
me with a monkey on monkey bay (always moneys there of course, since the tourists feed them bananas!)
the sunlight shimmers in the water
the beautiful beaches
my arty photos :)
another arty photo (of the kid whose house we stayed at in the forest up north when trekking)
elephant riding...
a house by the river in the wet, green heartlands of thailand
A Wat (temple) lit up at night
another arty picture of the sun behind some bells at a temple!
me with a monkey on monkey bay (always moneys there of course, since the tourists feed them bananas!) the sunlight shimmers in the water the beautiful beaches my arty photos :) another arty photo (of the kid whose house we stayed at in the forest up north when trekking) elephant riding... a house by the river in the wet, green heartlands of thailand A Wat (temple) lit up at nightanother arty picture of the sun behind some bells at a temple!
Friday, February 10, 2006
Time...
Back to Beijing now, via Shanghai..and finally able to catch up with everyone here, having only been in beijing for about 9 days in the last 3 months!
Beijing in the winter is often a city with snow, not that it snows often (only 2 or 3 times a year) but because the snow never really melts on the roadside...partly because it is so cold and partly it seems like the snow is full of chemicals from the pollution and in so inpure it just doesn't seem to melt in the sun!
Coming bck to Beijing is a shock though. I have been used to spending a few nights here or there getting by on few clothes and few meals; or i have been looked after well (at home in the UK or in Bangkok visiting friends) -but when you get 'home' to Beijing and remember that no-one likes cleaning, beijing is very dirty and dusty and then find out the cook isn't coming this month (not enough ppl around to make it worthwhile) it's a little shock.
Anyway it is nice to be back working with other people again instead of working out of Devrim's living-room in Shanghai all alone (and freezing due to his broken heater!) It's also nice to see 'old' friends return, not so nice to see 'old' friends leave (and maybe return?) but I got used to it a long time agao. A timely reminder that living abroad is full of people coming and going -at this age anyway.
At the conference in Shanghai before Chinese New Year we elected part of the new team who will run AIESEC here... and I certainly feel like AIESEC China is my AIESEC, no longer AIESEC UK. Maybe its because although I have only been here 18 months, AIESEC here is only 4 years old! Its sometimes emotional realising that you will be leaving soon, that new people will take your job. In AIESEC, this happens without fail every 12 months. What is great about it is not that you think about the past, but that you think about the future. I am always excited at these elections seeing new people take up opportunities and the challenge (since AIESEC is so challenging!) and seeing what the old people have achieved.
I have been talking to some of those newly elected people and some going onto new jobs (as well my former colleagues in AIESEC UK all settling into their new-ish jobs, sicne they also bummed around a bit!) and this leads to opportunities to reflect on why I came here, and why I stayed. Partly because China is so interesting and changing so fast...which is fascinating, but mostly because AIESEC here was changing so fast and I could play a key role in that. Growth in AIESEC has been astounding. in 2 years we will have doubled the number of Universities we work with and in 1 year we are more than doubling our core results... this was coming from the UK where growth was 10-20% a year at best.
But I am sure that leaving AIESEC in the summer is the right thing to do..unlike some others who are going to other countries or the international head office! Its time to move-on...but it will be tough. Since AIESEC offers so much responsibility and opportunities..things that the real world doesn't offer so easily, or with so little risk! Its time to start looking around... its also time to try harder to stay in touch with those i fleetingly saw in the UK. But then its time to work harder at my job to achieve as much as possible, whilst also finding time to have fun, to read, to... aaaah, time. Never enough -especially when you are young (still, but only just!) -and especially in a country or an organisation moving this fast!
I haven't managed to get to Harbin for the ice festival, climb a holy mountain in the snow or see the great wall in winter... so there are still things to do next winter -there are still regions of China I want to explore and there will always be 3 week-long holidays a year in China to try do them in! I guess its good not to do everything, to save some things and to slow down sometimes.. to try to savour the moment. to TRY anyway!
Beijing in the winter is often a city with snow, not that it snows often (only 2 or 3 times a year) but because the snow never really melts on the roadside...partly because it is so cold and partly it seems like the snow is full of chemicals from the pollution and in so inpure it just doesn't seem to melt in the sun!
Coming bck to Beijing is a shock though. I have been used to spending a few nights here or there getting by on few clothes and few meals; or i have been looked after well (at home in the UK or in Bangkok visiting friends) -but when you get 'home' to Beijing and remember that no-one likes cleaning, beijing is very dirty and dusty and then find out the cook isn't coming this month (not enough ppl around to make it worthwhile) it's a little shock.
Anyway it is nice to be back working with other people again instead of working out of Devrim's living-room in Shanghai all alone (and freezing due to his broken heater!) It's also nice to see 'old' friends return, not so nice to see 'old' friends leave (and maybe return?) but I got used to it a long time agao. A timely reminder that living abroad is full of people coming and going -at this age anyway.
At the conference in Shanghai before Chinese New Year we elected part of the new team who will run AIESEC here... and I certainly feel like AIESEC China is my AIESEC, no longer AIESEC UK. Maybe its because although I have only been here 18 months, AIESEC here is only 4 years old! Its sometimes emotional realising that you will be leaving soon, that new people will take your job. In AIESEC, this happens without fail every 12 months. What is great about it is not that you think about the past, but that you think about the future. I am always excited at these elections seeing new people take up opportunities and the challenge (since AIESEC is so challenging!) and seeing what the old people have achieved.
I have been talking to some of those newly elected people and some going onto new jobs (as well my former colleagues in AIESEC UK all settling into their new-ish jobs, sicne they also bummed around a bit!) and this leads to opportunities to reflect on why I came here, and why I stayed. Partly because China is so interesting and changing so fast...which is fascinating, but mostly because AIESEC here was changing so fast and I could play a key role in that. Growth in AIESEC has been astounding. in 2 years we will have doubled the number of Universities we work with and in 1 year we are more than doubling our core results... this was coming from the UK where growth was 10-20% a year at best.
But I am sure that leaving AIESEC in the summer is the right thing to do..unlike some others who are going to other countries or the international head office! Its time to move-on...but it will be tough. Since AIESEC offers so much responsibility and opportunities..things that the real world doesn't offer so easily, or with so little risk! Its time to start looking around... its also time to try harder to stay in touch with those i fleetingly saw in the UK. But then its time to work harder at my job to achieve as much as possible, whilst also finding time to have fun, to read, to... aaaah, time. Never enough -especially when you are young (still, but only just!) -and especially in a country or an organisation moving this fast!
I haven't managed to get to Harbin for the ice festival, climb a holy mountain in the snow or see the great wall in winter... so there are still things to do next winter -there are still regions of China I want to explore and there will always be 3 week-long holidays a year in China to try do them in! I guess its good not to do everything, to save some things and to slow down sometimes.. to try to savour the moment. to TRY anyway!
Thursday, February 02, 2006
Phuket!
greetings from phuket -an area now famous because of the tsunami; but previously legendary on the backpacker trail for beautiful beaches..of which I will be seeing tomorrow (and the next day). We arrived from Chiang Mai in the North which looked a lot like my trip to south Yunnan in China last Summer. In fact it sounded similar to since the hill-tribes we stayed with seemed to speak similar dialects to those i met last july.
it was an enjoyable hike across rivers and in 'jungle' (in the dry season it is quite tame), on elephants (very slow creatures!) and rafting on some (slow) rapids. We witnessed a stupid french couple handing out sweets to the local children, and then an even more stupid australian idiot do the same before threatening to punch us for complaining 'behind their backs' at what he was doing. We (6 of us) were all very chuffed since we knew we had the moral high ground. The french couple later came over to talk to us to admit at their stupidity -i have more respect for the french now!
[the sweets were in wrappers which would cause litter; they were not found locally so the kids would end up desiring something they neither find again, nor afford; they are obviously not healthy -especially for kids brought up on rice and vegetables; it created a fight/scramble for the sweets leading 2 kids lying on the floor crying]
we've found some people here speak chinese which is nice, since once you get off the beaten track (ie. 15 minutees walk from main strips here in phuket) noone speaks any english -but most people don't -which is even nicer, since thailand is so toursity! however being able to speak chinese (or french, when we knew there were some chinese speakers nearby) with Evelyn (my travelling partner) has been very useful in terms of agreeing prices for bargaining and making decisions...aah the joys of languages.
thailand's economy is very dependent on agriculture and tourism -most of the tourism does not seem too bad so far; many of the tours are good and the guides are all locals, so they try to protect their own country -however there are so many scams its a joke. today when we were told to changes buses, everyone was so suspicious we said no, even before listening to the reasoning. i felt sorry for the lady afterwards -but it goes to show that we all suspect 'guilty' and need to be convinced of 'innocent' later!
From the news it is interesting to read about China and Russia supporting the 'west' in their Iran/IAEA discussions and about China and India both competing at the World Economic Forum for attention. It is also intriguing reading the english language Thai papers; since they are so outspoken about the PM here who is under fire in a big way for some dodgy dealings. Not the kind of stuff found in China that is for sure.
Just a few days backpacking has reminded me how little you can learn about a country from backpacking. you can have fun, for sure, but you won't learn much about the culture or much about the language or history. I am much more keen to continue exploring china where i cna try to communicate and continue to build up my knowledge of the country. having said that, we have made the most of our tour guides, quizzing them about their lives (95% of thais are buddhist and most men do a few months as a monk) -we even attended 'monk chat' at a temple recently (great idea) to learn more.
Before I return to Shangahi (and then shortly to Beijing) on Sunday night I'll be listening to 'from our correspondent' on bbc website and downloading the recent and back episodes as podcasts onto my mp3 player since i cannot in china, but find the show fascinating. Meanwhile i must prepare for the snorkelling trip tomorrow and start to realise that soon i'll return to freezing beijing...but at least it might snow there!
it was an enjoyable hike across rivers and in 'jungle' (in the dry season it is quite tame), on elephants (very slow creatures!) and rafting on some (slow) rapids. We witnessed a stupid french couple handing out sweets to the local children, and then an even more stupid australian idiot do the same before threatening to punch us for complaining 'behind their backs' at what he was doing. We (6 of us) were all very chuffed since we knew we had the moral high ground. The french couple later came over to talk to us to admit at their stupidity -i have more respect for the french now!
[the sweets were in wrappers which would cause litter; they were not found locally so the kids would end up desiring something they neither find again, nor afford; they are obviously not healthy -especially for kids brought up on rice and vegetables; it created a fight/scramble for the sweets leading 2 kids lying on the floor crying]
we've found some people here speak chinese which is nice, since once you get off the beaten track (ie. 15 minutees walk from main strips here in phuket) noone speaks any english -but most people don't -which is even nicer, since thailand is so toursity! however being able to speak chinese (or french, when we knew there were some chinese speakers nearby) with Evelyn (my travelling partner) has been very useful in terms of agreeing prices for bargaining and making decisions...aah the joys of languages.
thailand's economy is very dependent on agriculture and tourism -most of the tourism does not seem too bad so far; many of the tours are good and the guides are all locals, so they try to protect their own country -however there are so many scams its a joke. today when we were told to changes buses, everyone was so suspicious we said no, even before listening to the reasoning. i felt sorry for the lady afterwards -but it goes to show that we all suspect 'guilty' and need to be convinced of 'innocent' later!
From the news it is interesting to read about China and Russia supporting the 'west' in their Iran/IAEA discussions and about China and India both competing at the World Economic Forum for attention. It is also intriguing reading the english language Thai papers; since they are so outspoken about the PM here who is under fire in a big way for some dodgy dealings. Not the kind of stuff found in China that is for sure.
Just a few days backpacking has reminded me how little you can learn about a country from backpacking. you can have fun, for sure, but you won't learn much about the culture or much about the language or history. I am much more keen to continue exploring china where i cna try to communicate and continue to build up my knowledge of the country. having said that, we have made the most of our tour guides, quizzing them about their lives (95% of thais are buddhist and most men do a few months as a monk) -we even attended 'monk chat' at a temple recently (great idea) to learn more.
Before I return to Shangahi (and then shortly to Beijing) on Sunday night I'll be listening to 'from our correspondent' on bbc website and downloading the recent and back episodes as podcasts onto my mp3 player since i cannot in china, but find the show fascinating. Meanwhile i must prepare for the snorkelling trip tomorrow and start to realise that soon i'll return to freezing beijing...but at least it might snow there!
Friday, January 27, 2006
work-travel-work....
After the southern China dash was the mad week-long conference including one day of workshops from companies about how they are responsible companies, which I organised. This went well and the rest of the conference went very well too. In fact it ended quite emotionally...and I had to tell myself to shut-up!
Conferences are great things...intense, hard work and lots of fun. Its a great way of getting to know more about Chinese culture (specifically from the youth perspective) -from sex to tiananmen square to entrepreneurship and so on. I hope I have a better understanding of Chinese culture now...but still lots to learn, and language issues to overcome. I had 1 day to sort of relax in Shanghai before flying off to Thailand in beautiful weather; arriving at 2am totally exhausted from not having slep for 7 days and then woke up to see the pool and then explore Bangkok.
Yes, its interesting and yes, its very, very Asian. Its great, but also quite predictable. Its quite laid back and quite cheap. There are the little tuk-tuks (3 wheeler open sided taxis) and boats speeding along the canals and rivers. The city is an interesting mix -a huge number of foreigners working and travelling, a big mix of new and old housing next to each other and a massive number of temples and other buddhist things right next to backpacker bars or expat bars.
After being taken for a ride, literally and figuratively on a 'see 4 temples for cheap cause its governmnent promotion day (Chinese New Year being the reason given to us), we had a fantastic seafood meal last night and this morning continued to not sleep in order to wake at 6.30 and do a bike tour around the local countryside. It was 1 trip that was absolutely fantastic with over 50 photos taken, several bums hurting and more by the end. We really felt like we were off the beaten track; be it on the boat or the bike. Photos will be up when i get some time (2007, maybe?).
First impressions are of a country that caters very much for the middle and upper classes with a pretty expensive subway system and few eating places that are as budget as you expect to find hidden in alleys for the locals.. i guess they must be there somewhere. Me, Echo and Evelyn are having a great time, and Echo's family are great hosts...20 of them have flown in for Chinese New Year so we have lots of eating and other traditional stuff to do before doing a 6 day dash around the country (of sorts).
We did not come across the supposed demonstration against the prime minister by his former political openent/currently a talkshow host but did enjoy some wonderful 'pad thai' and local beer. There is always an incentive to go to sleep when the next day you will go to the pool, an imperial palace, eat at the Hyatt and arrange tickets to see watefalls, elephants and the most perfect beaches in the World.
For now, work shall wait, sleep shall beckon and...zzzz
Conferences are great things...intense, hard work and lots of fun. Its a great way of getting to know more about Chinese culture (specifically from the youth perspective) -from sex to tiananmen square to entrepreneurship and so on. I hope I have a better understanding of Chinese culture now...but still lots to learn, and language issues to overcome. I had 1 day to sort of relax in Shanghai before flying off to Thailand in beautiful weather; arriving at 2am totally exhausted from not having slep for 7 days and then woke up to see the pool and then explore Bangkok.
Yes, its interesting and yes, its very, very Asian. Its great, but also quite predictable. Its quite laid back and quite cheap. There are the little tuk-tuks (3 wheeler open sided taxis) and boats speeding along the canals and rivers. The city is an interesting mix -a huge number of foreigners working and travelling, a big mix of new and old housing next to each other and a massive number of temples and other buddhist things right next to backpacker bars or expat bars.
After being taken for a ride, literally and figuratively on a 'see 4 temples for cheap cause its governmnent promotion day (Chinese New Year being the reason given to us), we had a fantastic seafood meal last night and this morning continued to not sleep in order to wake at 6.30 and do a bike tour around the local countryside. It was 1 trip that was absolutely fantastic with over 50 photos taken, several bums hurting and more by the end. We really felt like we were off the beaten track; be it on the boat or the bike. Photos will be up when i get some time (2007, maybe?).
First impressions are of a country that caters very much for the middle and upper classes with a pretty expensive subway system and few eating places that are as budget as you expect to find hidden in alleys for the locals.. i guess they must be there somewhere. Me, Echo and Evelyn are having a great time, and Echo's family are great hosts...20 of them have flown in for Chinese New Year so we have lots of eating and other traditional stuff to do before doing a 6 day dash around the country (of sorts).
We did not come across the supposed demonstration against the prime minister by his former political openent/currently a talkshow host but did enjoy some wonderful 'pad thai' and local beer. There is always an incentive to go to sleep when the next day you will go to the pool, an imperial palace, eat at the Hyatt and arrange tickets to see watefalls, elephants and the most perfect beaches in the World.
For now, work shall wait, sleep shall beckon and...zzzz
Monday, January 16, 2006
Cities
Cities are interesting since they are found everywhere and serve the same purpose, yet each is different...but how different?
Coming to china and returning to the UK has reminded me what makes a city. In the UK most cities have been under redevelopment for over 30 years -it started after the War I guess with the economic restructuring of the economy away from manufacturing. Cities had to find new sources of employment and new sources of 'life'. Now the focus is on 'community'; designing whole districts, shopping, community services, transport and so on designed to create a sense of community, to reduce crime and so on.
In China, since so many bits of cities have been ripped up and rebuilt in just a few years (often without the previous occupiers having much of a say in the matter) and money has been spent 'willy-nilly' sometimes (i.e. our building will be the tallest, our hotel will have the highest revolving restaurant, our building will have the most glass, ours will have the most fancy shops inside etc), then it can be easy for a city to lose what identity or community it had.
In the last few days I have been back to Hong Kong which is a city that seems to not know what it is. More visibly Chinese than any city in mainland China but one where most people speak english, the signs are in both languages and you'll find the most advanced buildings or technology and the most diverse countries represented culturally in the residents, than any in the World. Maybe it will find its identity in the future. Right now everyone just works so hard, no-one has time to think about it!
I also went to Shenzhen, a small town that 25 years ago had 30,000 people and is now a city with a bigger population than London; full of China's richest (indeed its sometimes known as the play area of the rich -where hong kong and guangdong residents come to spend their money -though its no Monte Carlo at all, and nearby Macau draws teh gambling crowd) yet 8 million of the 10 million residents are workers..and mostly migrant workers (apparently). I was not there long enough to find out what the city is... but its nice enough to walk around, brand spanking new... probably not much community, culture or identity though.
Guangzhou is where i have been for a few more days, and this is the center of China's economic boom centred on manufacturing. Coming here last time it just seemed like shops (i was only here 6 hours!), but it actually is very Chinese. Lots of old Chinese appartment blocks and noodle shops around the corner from 5 star hotels, french style cafes and bars full of the weirdest bunch of foreigners you'll find. They come from all over on business trips..maybe as buyers, maybe as traders, maybe just to find a chinese girl who is looking for a rich westerner. But they are a motley crew -most seem to be here temporarily (on trips) whereas BJ and SH tend to have those who are more residents than travellers. So it might just be the most typical chinese city -the best expression of China now. It has an identity, but its losing it to skyscrapers and subway lines. Just outside it are both rice paddies and massive factories -inside it are a few beggars lining the wide streets and a lot of expensive taxis. There seems little Chinese history or culture, as is typical of China: beijing and a couple of other towns are the exceptions...
40% of china's population already lives in urban areas and the biggest migration in earth's history is continuing apace. Thinking about the cities is a great symbol of China in general. Changing quickly but somehow managing to keep it's sense of Chinese-ness -just. Hopefully there will forever be the old people playing cards, the local traders lining the streets with 'crap on a rug' (maybe i could trademark that sentence!) or 'fruit in a truck/bucket/box-on-shoulders', a cyclist running you over and people serving 'lunch-in-a-box'. But when i walk outside now I could just as easily go to McDonalds, get given a prostitute's calling card, buy a fake DVD or spend my disposable income on fashion.
Actually I think I need a 'lunch-in-a-box' one last time before zipping off to Shanghai
Coming to china and returning to the UK has reminded me what makes a city. In the UK most cities have been under redevelopment for over 30 years -it started after the War I guess with the economic restructuring of the economy away from manufacturing. Cities had to find new sources of employment and new sources of 'life'. Now the focus is on 'community'; designing whole districts, shopping, community services, transport and so on designed to create a sense of community, to reduce crime and so on.
In China, since so many bits of cities have been ripped up and rebuilt in just a few years (often without the previous occupiers having much of a say in the matter) and money has been spent 'willy-nilly' sometimes (i.e. our building will be the tallest, our hotel will have the highest revolving restaurant, our building will have the most glass, ours will have the most fancy shops inside etc), then it can be easy for a city to lose what identity or community it had.
In the last few days I have been back to Hong Kong which is a city that seems to not know what it is. More visibly Chinese than any city in mainland China but one where most people speak english, the signs are in both languages and you'll find the most advanced buildings or technology and the most diverse countries represented culturally in the residents, than any in the World. Maybe it will find its identity in the future. Right now everyone just works so hard, no-one has time to think about it!
I also went to Shenzhen, a small town that 25 years ago had 30,000 people and is now a city with a bigger population than London; full of China's richest (indeed its sometimes known as the play area of the rich -where hong kong and guangdong residents come to spend their money -though its no Monte Carlo at all, and nearby Macau draws teh gambling crowd) yet 8 million of the 10 million residents are workers..and mostly migrant workers (apparently). I was not there long enough to find out what the city is... but its nice enough to walk around, brand spanking new... probably not much community, culture or identity though.
Guangzhou is where i have been for a few more days, and this is the center of China's economic boom centred on manufacturing. Coming here last time it just seemed like shops (i was only here 6 hours!), but it actually is very Chinese. Lots of old Chinese appartment blocks and noodle shops around the corner from 5 star hotels, french style cafes and bars full of the weirdest bunch of foreigners you'll find. They come from all over on business trips..maybe as buyers, maybe as traders, maybe just to find a chinese girl who is looking for a rich westerner. But they are a motley crew -most seem to be here temporarily (on trips) whereas BJ and SH tend to have those who are more residents than travellers. So it might just be the most typical chinese city -the best expression of China now. It has an identity, but its losing it to skyscrapers and subway lines. Just outside it are both rice paddies and massive factories -inside it are a few beggars lining the wide streets and a lot of expensive taxis. There seems little Chinese history or culture, as is typical of China: beijing and a couple of other towns are the exceptions...
40% of china's population already lives in urban areas and the biggest migration in earth's history is continuing apace. Thinking about the cities is a great symbol of China in general. Changing quickly but somehow managing to keep it's sense of Chinese-ness -just. Hopefully there will forever be the old people playing cards, the local traders lining the streets with 'crap on a rug' (maybe i could trademark that sentence!) or 'fruit in a truck/bucket/box-on-shoulders', a cyclist running you over and people serving 'lunch-in-a-box'. But when i walk outside now I could just as easily go to McDonalds, get given a prostitute's calling card, buy a fake DVD or spend my disposable income on fashion.
Actually I think I need a 'lunch-in-a-box' one last time before zipping off to Shanghai
Thursday, January 12, 2006
i'm too busy travelling, meeting and don't have enough time to do my work
its. 2.25am, i am getting up at 7am.
AGAIN!
AGAIN!
Monday, January 09, 2006
Unique cities
It seems I wrote in my previous post the phrase 'very unique' which may in fact be grammatically incorrect. Never the less, in the space of a week I have re-realised uniqueness.
The thing is, in China, most cities are pretty similar -some have a more developed modern bit than others, and some have more remaining old bits than the others, but barring beijing and shanghai most others are similar (note this is about cities, and NOT about the rural areas of China which are the opposite). London, is and I expect (as long as I do not forget what it is like) will always be my favourite city.
It may be extortionately expensive (and even more so when turning up from China!) but it has an atmosphere that I beleive is unparalleled (though I have not lived in every city in the World). Just walking along the river seeing St Paul's, the gherkin, parliament, the Tate and knowing that around the corner is the Globe, London Dungeon, Museums, Embassies and so much more. Seeing people from all around the world -feeling like a tourist in my own home is a wonderful feeling. I have realied that Beijing is an interesting city in an interesting country and that London is an exciting city in a sedate country. London rocks!
Then onto Belgium via a short 2 and a half hour train journey to see the European Parliament (the afternoon tour is not on fridays presumably so we cannot see how few MEPs bother to turn up at that time for work) and typically grand European Churches, Cathedrals, Palaces, Cafes, Restaurants and squares. aaah, what fond reminders of my 10 country/5 week dash in Summer 2000. Brugges was another matter altogether -a truly stunning and enjoyable town with the entire centre untouched for hundreds of years; beautiful chocolate shops and picturesque water-building features. I have so rarely seen a city lit up so well as to really bring out its features (I sound like a morning TV fashion stylist now, yikes). I much prefer it to Venice (supposed to be the venice of the north) and even more than Zhouzhuang (venice of the east, over near Shanghai).
Finally I am writing this by a fountain at night in 'Charter Park' which sits at the foot of the Bank of China building (the most noticable in Hong Kong) and adjacent to the Legislative Council (Hong Kong's 'parliament' that seems very small, presumably since its never had much power before '97 or after) -earlier there were old people doing theiir Tai Qi as always. Down the road/across the bay are thousands of 25 story-plus buildings and hundreds of 40-storey plus buildings lit up (some with xmas decorations of 30m high) and sandwiched between them going up the hill sits little chinese restaurants, stupidly steep stairs/alleyways and neon signs everywhere. I remember why I love this city so much as well.
In a few minutes (10.30pm) I'll be off to stay with the AIESEC guys here for a few days to work and renew my visa before heading back to cheap China. but first, back to the running water, quietness of a deserted park and the sweet music of Katie Melua on my new ipod (with video :)) that will keep me company for many a future journey I am sure (since i cannot log onto the wireless networks that are all secured in the park!).
The thing is, in China, most cities are pretty similar -some have a more developed modern bit than others, and some have more remaining old bits than the others, but barring beijing and shanghai most others are similar (note this is about cities, and NOT about the rural areas of China which are the opposite). London, is and I expect (as long as I do not forget what it is like) will always be my favourite city.
It may be extortionately expensive (and even more so when turning up from China!) but it has an atmosphere that I beleive is unparalleled (though I have not lived in every city in the World). Just walking along the river seeing St Paul's, the gherkin, parliament, the Tate and knowing that around the corner is the Globe, London Dungeon, Museums, Embassies and so much more. Seeing people from all around the world -feeling like a tourist in my own home is a wonderful feeling. I have realied that Beijing is an interesting city in an interesting country and that London is an exciting city in a sedate country. London rocks!
Then onto Belgium via a short 2 and a half hour train journey to see the European Parliament (the afternoon tour is not on fridays presumably so we cannot see how few MEPs bother to turn up at that time for work) and typically grand European Churches, Cathedrals, Palaces, Cafes, Restaurants and squares. aaah, what fond reminders of my 10 country/5 week dash in Summer 2000. Brugges was another matter altogether -a truly stunning and enjoyable town with the entire centre untouched for hundreds of years; beautiful chocolate shops and picturesque water-building features. I have so rarely seen a city lit up so well as to really bring out its features (I sound like a morning TV fashion stylist now, yikes). I much prefer it to Venice (supposed to be the venice of the north) and even more than Zhouzhuang (venice of the east, over near Shanghai).
Finally I am writing this by a fountain at night in 'Charter Park' which sits at the foot of the Bank of China building (the most noticable in Hong Kong) and adjacent to the Legislative Council (Hong Kong's 'parliament' that seems very small, presumably since its never had much power before '97 or after) -earlier there were old people doing theiir Tai Qi as always. Down the road/across the bay are thousands of 25 story-plus buildings and hundreds of 40-storey plus buildings lit up (some with xmas decorations of 30m high) and sandwiched between them going up the hill sits little chinese restaurants, stupidly steep stairs/alleyways and neon signs everywhere. I remember why I love this city so much as well.
In a few minutes (10.30pm) I'll be off to stay with the AIESEC guys here for a few days to work and renew my visa before heading back to cheap China. but first, back to the running water, quietness of a deserted park and the sweet music of Katie Melua on my new ipod (with video :)) that will keep me company for many a future journey I am sure (since i cannot log onto the wireless networks that are all secured in the park!).
Tuesday, January 03, 2006
the UK
Returning to the UK has reminded me that no matter how much the world globalises/comes together, every country is still very unique.
So far I have revelled in:
- drinking real beer (A.K.A. bitter/ale and NOT lager) -I presume that xmas ales is a UK tradition; staying in a B & B;
-walking in the British countryside (with footpaths, bridleways, kissing gates, styles etc);
-driving on the left; put my hand up to thank the guy who put his hand up to thank me for letting him through when there was only space for 1 car in a narrow road;
-eaten food like spag bol, chips, steak, loction pudding, chocolate cake, pizza, curry, sandwhiches, toasted cheese sandwhiches, roast lamb, muesli cereal, croissants and so many other things;
-read, listened, watched and lauded over the BBC;
-caught up on all the great british comedy (new ones like little britain, medium ones like the office & father ted and the older ones too);
-strolled through modern redevloped town centres (with trams!) like Sheffield and older ones like Stourbridge (chavs and all!);
-journeyed to many a pub (god bless the pub);
-visited the residents' bar of a posh hotel on the golf course
-and caught up with friends galore (honestly!)
Another few weeks of stupid travel agenda coming up, and only another 5 days in the UK, where it has rained (not much unfortunately), snowed and been overcast (all in 1 day -great to be back!). Been having lots of thoughts..will try to remember them and write them down soon! Happy new year, and have a great 2006 everyone!
So far I have revelled in:
- drinking real beer (A.K.A. bitter/ale and NOT lager) -I presume that xmas ales is a UK tradition; staying in a B & B;
-walking in the British countryside (with footpaths, bridleways, kissing gates, styles etc);
-driving on the left; put my hand up to thank the guy who put his hand up to thank me for letting him through when there was only space for 1 car in a narrow road;
-eaten food like spag bol, chips, steak, loction pudding, chocolate cake, pizza, curry, sandwhiches, toasted cheese sandwhiches, roast lamb, muesli cereal, croissants and so many other things;
-read, listened, watched and lauded over the BBC;
-caught up on all the great british comedy (new ones like little britain, medium ones like the office & father ted and the older ones too);
-strolled through modern redevloped town centres (with trams!) like Sheffield and older ones like Stourbridge (chavs and all!);
-journeyed to many a pub (god bless the pub);
-visited the residents' bar of a posh hotel on the golf course
-and caught up with friends galore (honestly!)
Another few weeks of stupid travel agenda coming up, and only another 5 days in the UK, where it has rained (not much unfortunately), snowed and been overcast (all in 1 day -great to be back!). Been having lots of thoughts..will try to remember them and write them down soon! Happy new year, and have a great 2006 everyone!
Tuesday, December 27, 2005
perspectives on China from the UK
Quick update: had team planning, ice-skating on hou hai and xmas eve party, then flew home for family and food (of course!)
Since the first day I arrived here I realised how little I know about China (even though I read a little before I came). In fact what I knew was: Tiananmen Sqaure (violence or other), Mao (dictator of some kind), Communist state, Great Wall (near Beijing maybe), Hong Kong (handovered or something), Booming Economy and the new stuff I read about (Cultural Revolution, Great Leap Forward etc).
Part of my weblog was about telling people more about China, but I guess I have also tried to restrain myself (not wanting to 'lecture') and having lived there for over a year I've probably forgotten both this idea and how different the country is.
Coming back and showing photos to friends received the expected questions about Beijing's masive development, pollution and so on. But it also led to questions about Tibet (is it a country?), Religion (are chinese people buddhist?), Taiwain (is it its own country?) and so on. I had forgotten how much basic (yet complicated) issues are little know. How some of the World is learning about a railway in Tibet and its consequences but yet don't know the history of Tibet.
It is strange, from my perspective when I think back and learned that most chinese people have this (somewhat justified) hatred of Japan due to historical tensions, that the official Chinese Church still recognises the government over the Vatican (and thus the Vatican recognises Taipei as the rulers rather than Beijing) and that the Chinese New Year is mostly a quiet time for families rather than the raucousness of a Western New Year.
Not much has changed in the UK really (except for more speed cameras!); but I am getting a different perspective on China... the next few weeks will be busy but manageable, but hopefully fun..preparing for 2007! London on the 5th is a party -all welcome after a New Year's one as well. UK prices, 12 days to go...
Since the first day I arrived here I realised how little I know about China (even though I read a little before I came). In fact what I knew was: Tiananmen Sqaure (violence or other), Mao (dictator of some kind), Communist state, Great Wall (near Beijing maybe), Hong Kong (handovered or something), Booming Economy and the new stuff I read about (Cultural Revolution, Great Leap Forward etc).
Part of my weblog was about telling people more about China, but I guess I have also tried to restrain myself (not wanting to 'lecture') and having lived there for over a year I've probably forgotten both this idea and how different the country is.
Coming back and showing photos to friends received the expected questions about Beijing's masive development, pollution and so on. But it also led to questions about Tibet (is it a country?), Religion (are chinese people buddhist?), Taiwain (is it its own country?) and so on. I had forgotten how much basic (yet complicated) issues are little know. How some of the World is learning about a railway in Tibet and its consequences but yet don't know the history of Tibet.
It is strange, from my perspective when I think back and learned that most chinese people have this (somewhat justified) hatred of Japan due to historical tensions, that the official Chinese Church still recognises the government over the Vatican (and thus the Vatican recognises Taipei as the rulers rather than Beijing) and that the Chinese New Year is mostly a quiet time for families rather than the raucousness of a Western New Year.
Not much has changed in the UK really (except for more speed cameras!); but I am getting a different perspective on China... the next few weeks will be busy but manageable, but hopefully fun..preparing for 2007! London on the 5th is a party -all welcome after a New Year's one as well. UK prices, 12 days to go...
Monday, December 19, 2005
the end of another year
I'm 24 years old, have already had 2 parties to celebrate (and probably more to come in the UK) and its almost 2006. Its a bit scary, realising I have not seen so many people for such a long time and having spent b'day 04 and 05 here, it feels like i have been away for even more than 15 months.
I read the UK papers almost every day, so I feel like I know what is happening, but I am currently comparing it to the fact that I speak to chinese people every day and live in China. I still probably don't know China that well, and nor do I really know what its like in the UK. Maybe nothing has changed. but since I've left there have been terrorist bombs in london, the olympic bid, a General election (though that didn't change anything unfortunately!), friends getting engaged, changing jobs and all kinds of other things.
I'm going to come home knowing I am only around for a short time, do not know exactly when I will be back, and not exactly knowing what job I can or cannot find next summer in order to get my career up another step. hmmm. no time for reflection really. I am only 24 and there are plenty of opportunities. Soon it will be time to make yet more decisions -I should have a successor lined up within 2 months and then job applications, summer travelling to organise and a hot spring/summer in China that should convince more UK-ers to come visit.
Anyway I'm still tired from train journeys and shopping (damn cheap fake goods will take up most of my suitcase!) and later this week we have team planning, christmas eve dinner and then...woosh.
And whilst all this is happening, every day I continue to read about the ongoing western media's analysis of the chinese media's handling of the small protest and associated killing in Guandong that took place last week. China is still a fascinating country... with fascinating people everywhere, and a langauge that I just cannot master....yet!!
I read the UK papers almost every day, so I feel like I know what is happening, but I am currently comparing it to the fact that I speak to chinese people every day and live in China. I still probably don't know China that well, and nor do I really know what its like in the UK. Maybe nothing has changed. but since I've left there have been terrorist bombs in london, the olympic bid, a General election (though that didn't change anything unfortunately!), friends getting engaged, changing jobs and all kinds of other things.
I'm going to come home knowing I am only around for a short time, do not know exactly when I will be back, and not exactly knowing what job I can or cannot find next summer in order to get my career up another step. hmmm. no time for reflection really. I am only 24 and there are plenty of opportunities. Soon it will be time to make yet more decisions -I should have a successor lined up within 2 months and then job applications, summer travelling to organise and a hot spring/summer in China that should convince more UK-ers to come visit.
Anyway I'm still tired from train journeys and shopping (damn cheap fake goods will take up most of my suitcase!) and later this week we have team planning, christmas eve dinner and then...woosh.
And whilst all this is happening, every day I continue to read about the ongoing western media's analysis of the chinese media's handling of the small protest and associated killing in Guandong that took place last week. China is still a fascinating country... with fascinating people everywhere, and a langauge that I just cannot master....yet!!
Saturday, December 17, 2005
Fengyang Lu
the best street in Shanghai is fengyang lu. There are not that many parts of Shanghai that feel chinese..there are some, but not many. Fengyang lu is one of them. What makes it Chinese?
-the hordes of cyclists and motorcyclists that constantly pass by and get stuck at the traffic lights (causing my father to quote that he thought there was a race about to start...)
-the 3, 4, 5 rmb options for a cooked meal that you can get from a lady every 50m who has just cooked 10 dishes in big pots, put the big pots outside her house and then serves it to you (you pay more for more dishes squeezed into your box)
-the dumplings and baozi (steamed bread with fillings) places that provide cheap, takeaway food
-the hairdressers (they're everywhere in China)
-the spitting
-the food market that leads off the street with people selling all kinds of things, including (of course) bits of animals that you dont think can be eaten, and bits of meat that really don't think should be the resting place for so many flies...
-the street food for breakfast
-the crazy cars that turn right on a red light (when pedestrians have a green light, which is legal) and like a hot knife in butter carve a way through the crowds
-the cars that will reverse up a street cause the missed the turning, or will just go down a 1-way street the wrong way because...well, because they can!
-the people-wardens (yep, like traffic wardens) that man the pedestrian lights!
...and many other things besides.
Its also a great street because its a 2 minute walk from the subway station, 5 minutes from the center of Shanghai and because it is definitely Shanghai. It has patisseries on it (yep, the french shops selling breads, cakes etc) and it has a hospital that is spanking new and over 25 floors. It has a couple of highways zooming over it, it has a couple of skyscrapers dotted along it, or just behind it and it has fake DVD shops. Plus, of course it has Devrim and his wonderful appartment (until yesterday when the phone and internet stopped working) where I stay in Shanghai. Oh, and in case I have not mentioned food enough (and you really need to spend a month in china, just eating (since menus are often 20 pages long and there are at least 15 styles of chinese food) to get to know China) -the fantastic hot pot, xinjiang and fried dumpling restaurants on/beside it!
Its the reason why I've fallen in love with Shanghai -not just the beautiful strolling around the french quarter, the sheer scale of the skyscrapers, the huge number of fancy appartments or foreigners and not even the style that oozes from a place with ferrari shops, xmas lights (a bit tacky by shanghai standards, but they dont exist much else in mainland china) and a subway with 12 exits and automatic gates!
fengyang lu -respect!
-the hordes of cyclists and motorcyclists that constantly pass by and get stuck at the traffic lights (causing my father to quote that he thought there was a race about to start...)
-the 3, 4, 5 rmb options for a cooked meal that you can get from a lady every 50m who has just cooked 10 dishes in big pots, put the big pots outside her house and then serves it to you (you pay more for more dishes squeezed into your box)
-the dumplings and baozi (steamed bread with fillings) places that provide cheap, takeaway food
-the hairdressers (they're everywhere in China)
-the spitting
-the food market that leads off the street with people selling all kinds of things, including (of course) bits of animals that you dont think can be eaten, and bits of meat that really don't think should be the resting place for so many flies...
-the street food for breakfast
-the crazy cars that turn right on a red light (when pedestrians have a green light, which is legal) and like a hot knife in butter carve a way through the crowds
-the cars that will reverse up a street cause the missed the turning, or will just go down a 1-way street the wrong way because...well, because they can!
-the people-wardens (yep, like traffic wardens) that man the pedestrian lights!
...and many other things besides.
Its also a great street because its a 2 minute walk from the subway station, 5 minutes from the center of Shanghai and because it is definitely Shanghai. It has patisseries on it (yep, the french shops selling breads, cakes etc) and it has a hospital that is spanking new and over 25 floors. It has a couple of highways zooming over it, it has a couple of skyscrapers dotted along it, or just behind it and it has fake DVD shops. Plus, of course it has Devrim and his wonderful appartment (until yesterday when the phone and internet stopped working) where I stay in Shanghai. Oh, and in case I have not mentioned food enough (and you really need to spend a month in china, just eating (since menus are often 20 pages long and there are at least 15 styles of chinese food) to get to know China) -the fantastic hot pot, xinjiang and fried dumpling restaurants on/beside it!
Its the reason why I've fallen in love with Shanghai -not just the beautiful strolling around the french quarter, the sheer scale of the skyscrapers, the huge number of fancy appartments or foreigners and not even the style that oozes from a place with ferrari shops, xmas lights (a bit tacky by shanghai standards, but they dont exist much else in mainland china) and a subway with 12 exits and automatic gates!
fengyang lu -respect!
Friday, December 02, 2005
Human Rights!
Just spent a few days with some of the most important business men in the world at the United Nations Global Compact summitt in Shanghai -kinda cool. Before that was spending the weekend with the President of AIESEC International (Brodie) (who is younger than me -and then I was sharing a bed with since we were all crashing at Diggidy's in Shanghai).
Brodie's not that important really, and obviously very down-to-earth; so doesn't compare to the boat trip on the river in Shanghai on Wednesday night. That was a classic night, since I spoke to the 3 most important people related to Human Rights IN THE WORLD, on a boat IN CHINA! It was very, very, very cool to chat with Mary Robinson, the former President of Ireland and former UN High Commissioner for Human Rights. It was much more fun to also talk to the Heads of both Amnesty International and Human Rights Watch.
Both of these organisations are totally banned in China (websites, the staff cannot get visas normally etc) -but both were allowed into China on 4 day visas (actually the Human Rights Watch guy was given a 30 day one, then they called him and changed their mind to give him a 4 day one, once the computer realised who he was!). Because they are both founding organisations of the Global Compact, their attending (and speaking) was a precondition for the Conference to be hosted by China.
very cool stuff, the conference was interesting and fun; the week in Shanghai has been busy as hell but great, and next week will be likewise in Beijing hopefully. now i just need to find time to try to organise the New Year's Party and to go shopping before I return home!
World AIDS Day was yesterday -keep the promise.
Brodie's not that important really, and obviously very down-to-earth; so doesn't compare to the boat trip on the river in Shanghai on Wednesday night. That was a classic night, since I spoke to the 3 most important people related to Human Rights IN THE WORLD, on a boat IN CHINA! It was very, very, very cool to chat with Mary Robinson, the former President of Ireland and former UN High Commissioner for Human Rights. It was much more fun to also talk to the Heads of both Amnesty International and Human Rights Watch.
Both of these organisations are totally banned in China (websites, the staff cannot get visas normally etc) -but both were allowed into China on 4 day visas (actually the Human Rights Watch guy was given a 30 day one, then they called him and changed their mind to give him a 4 day one, once the computer realised who he was!). Because they are both founding organisations of the Global Compact, their attending (and speaking) was a precondition for the Conference to be hosted by China.
very cool stuff, the conference was interesting and fun; the week in Shanghai has been busy as hell but great, and next week will be likewise in Beijing hopefully. now i just need to find time to try to organise the New Year's Party and to go shopping before I return home!
World AIDS Day was yesterday -keep the promise.
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