so in an attempt to make for some slightly more interesting reading, let me try to answer 2 questions. What have I learnt and what do I think about what has happened in the last 2 weeks?
Well, i have realised that although my chinese is not great, its enough to be able to make friends with those that dont speak Chinese; even if i only understand a little of the more advanced conversation. It means i definitely think i can take more value from travelling in a country where i speak (some of) the language rather than other countries in south asia, africa or south america (not that i have the time or the money to go to any of those places soon!). Its much more interesting being able to read signs and things, talk to some people, and organise transport and accommodation!
I've been thinking a bit about backpacking. Its been obvious for several months that you learn a lot more about a country by staying there a long time, and the same can be said about learning about a city, or village too. So i think its great many 'gappers' spend a few months in one place, and would reccommend it. Afterwards you are then able to take more from the places you only briefly touch. But i have realised the most fun moments from travelling are with other people, and irrelevant on the place (apart from being the place to find those people), that the most attractive things are almost always the natural objects, not the man-made, and that the most interesting man-made things to see, are the oldest (that are still surviving). The best way of seeing a culture is to see it in its natural form; and that you have to accept that many of the worst things that toursits see, are because the locals' way of life is improving (defined as the fact that the locals choose a new way of life since it must make their lives better). Thus for me to moan about Lijiang, its just to say that the lijiangers are presumably doing better now than they were before; so i should just accept this.
When hiking around xishuangbanna; its amazing to see how people can live, and to see how technology/globalisation can and cannot affect them. People are perfectly happy with a limited diet and only 1 lightbulb (very poor light - bad for eyes), but have their TV. These are people who have yet to go out and buy clothes with english written on them (which they dont understand). But, many of the villages had motorbikes and of course, the odd tractor, since otherwise they would not be able to communicate or trade. Both being a cruical part of economic development. Its strange though, since most of the villagers (and many in the towns) still carry things in baskets on their backs (ow 2 baskets on the end of a stick, that they balance on their shoulders)... many, many of the old people's backs are destroyed from working manually, and yet this is how they continue to work. Whether they have other options or not, i am not sure, but it certainly seems as though some seem to shun technology (even a basket on wheels would be a better way of transporting fruit in the cities!).
I read that 1 of the (many) reasons behind the US rejecting the kyoto (climate change) protocol was because of developing countries not being a part of it (even though, those countries are trying to reduce their impacts anyway); in particular the quote was that every week, China is building a new power station using 1960s technology. So its really irrelevant how much progress some countries make, or even 1 country makes in 1 area, if in other areas, it is going backwards. Indeed China is planning on implementing strict new standards for new vehicles emissions. This is great for new vehicles, but in the countryside, the lorries and the tractors are not going to be replaced any time soon -there is not the money to. Interestingly, peugot's CEO (i think) recently floated the idea that the EU should provide a 1000 euros to people with old cars just to get rid of them! In China, this would be a great idea. Every single vehicle that is not a passengar car in China; outside of a few cities (and even in most cities) belts out black smoke. China is supposed to be very inefficient with its energy use, and with the government still subsidising oil, i can't see that changing soon.
Yunnan houses some 50% of china's minorities, and we probably saw about a quarter of those in 2 weeks; a great deal of them are more religious based (influenced by buddhism and so forth from south asia). However i dont think many of them actually practice religion. I asked the specialist in the museum who said that religion is not about praying or beliefs, more about a way of life. In southern china there are no religious frictions like you have elsewhere around the world, since noone strictly believes in religion. In fact the reason (she said) most monasteries survive in small towns is because they function as schools (and function well). I think for many of the old monks, they carry on with their way of life, because it is their way of life. I think for many of the young monks, they do it because of peer/family pressure and because it is like school. I asked a chinese friend about how come so many people are always seen praying in monasteries in beijing, even with so few being religious, and she thinks that people just do it for 'luck' -pray for the good health of someone or other, rather than knowing who they are praying too or anything like that. In Baishuitai, one of the locals (area mostly tibetan) said that they would be celebrating the torch festial, when i asked him. This is strange since its a festival celebrated by the Yi minority, who are quite different to the tibetans, and there was almost no Yi people in the village. Apparently everyone just celebrates everyone else's festivals since tahts the culture. Its a culture where festivals are crucial to the way of life (see family, dance etc... whatever reasons people have for festivals), and the reasons behind them get lost somewhat. In fact that festival was not very exciting, even in the Yi villages!
thats enough for now, probably more to come. hope its slightly interesting!
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