Thursday, September 03, 2009

In the desert

We went to some spectacular grottoes that i had been to before, which
are fun to look at due to the stairways carved out of, and sticking
out of, the cliff that you clomb to see the carvings. However the 6 hr
return journey was 12 in the end, so it might not have been worth it!

We did finally arrive at the desert for glorious sunshine, zip lines,
sand duning and quad biking amongst others. The area, sha po tou, is
split into a south section, where the desert meets the Yellow river
with fantastic views, and the north section. After zip lining down to
the river, it was the north section which we fell in love with and
ended up spontaneously staying the night at, in a hotel in the desert.
It was very well designed and fit into the scenery well, as did the
other buildings containing the attraction, and a bar which provided us
with a roof to drink on whilst the sun set. A quick game of football
on the sand broke up the drinking games before dinner.

The amazing quad biking was one of the best ten minutes i have ever
had doing any sport, so we did it 4 times. Flying, almost literally,
over the massive dunes was a wonderful experience, at speeds that did
not feel safe.

The resort area was very well designed physically and well laid out,
unusually for China. We really were in a playground in the desert,
with few other people, and surrounded by sand. Unfortunately the
Chinese are so keen to take your tourist money, after paying an
entrance fee we still paid for each activity we did.

The following day at another scenic site, sikou, we saw some dramatic
rocky scenery and had a fight over paying an additional fee to cross a
rope ladder, which was the main attraction we came to see (and paid
the entrance ticket for). As much as it was ridiculous to charge
another fee, we had to accept the Chinese tourism industry's desire to
play its role in increasing national consumption.

We then took a bus half way up Ningxia province to the capital. It is
a small province so it was only a 2 hour (fast) bus ride, which was
nice and then a quick dash out to the Western Xia tombs, from a
dynasty the ruled much of north-west China a milennium ago.

The province was one of the last provinces to be specified and is
supposed to be a Hui one, the Hui being an islamic ethnic minority.
But most Hui live elsewhere in China (only 1/3rd of those in Ningxia
are Hui nowadays) due to population movements. We saw more mosques a
few days earlier in Gansu than we did in Ningxia.

Being able to speak the language has rfevealed another benefit with
our constant negotiations with taxi drivers or others: being able to
understand them helps mean we can get their perspective on why a price
is set as it is; and in many cases found no need to bargain. Though
this has beem difficult for my sister who thinks we should bargain
everything, all the time, always!

The lack of english at the museum, a typical problem, even in major
cities, is frustrating. This especially so when they translate 1
paragraph, but nothing else!
More frustrating though is the lack of any interesting content that
gives you context or keeps you engaged or makes you interested.
Instead text is boring and factual, out of context and meaningless.
Museums is one area where the Chinese are not making much progress.

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