Monday, September 18, 2006

Surprising people

The last couple of weekends, with me (firstly) and my friends (I went back to the same place with 3 friends/colleagues) in rural china have provided lots of surprises. Sometimes its the woman at the top of Kong Tong Shan (a relatively famous Daoist Mountain) selling fangbian mian (literally: convenient noodles -instant noodles) who was surprised to see a foreigner, let alone one with a massive backpack and tent -or one who comes back 2 weekends in a row!

Other times its the kids who see you strolling through their village in the middle of nowhere, 2 hours from the nearest track; or the shepherd and his son who were sitting with their bulls admiring the view when i came and sat next to them; or the 70 year old guy pulling a cart piled high with straw who turned the corner to find me lying on a hill reading a book; or the 15 year old kid who was looking after his 3 cows only to turn around and find a Brit, a Japanese, an American and a Chinese all speaking english eating a packed lunch.

Then there were the construction workers building a high-way who were just a little surprised to see the 4 of us descend out of the middle of a craggy valley and dodging their dumper trucks.. it goes on. Actually I wonder if I should have told the villagers my name -then they might name the village after the 'white man'! he he. We found several shepherds who remembered me along with the hotel manager and noodle woman.

Actually for the 15 year old whose school is a 4 hour walk away (they normally stay overnight during the weekdays in appalling conditions), I am sure he won't go to the city very often, and he won't even dream of going to Beijing or seeing foreigners -but he's got a story to tell his freinds. I don't know if meeting (or seeing really, since we don't talk too much) people like me inspires these villagers or makes them laugh.. or makes them come a little bit closer to the life they hear about on TV.

I can tell that they are happy people; they may be uneducated, and live a harsh life, but its simple and happy. But at the same time most of these villagers only wash their bodies once a year (fact!) and have a cash income of a hundred dollars a year. Now to put it into perspective, they don't need much cash -except for a) education and b) health. Which is where Plan comes in, as a development organisation (not a charity), Plan works not just to give the children money to go to school (although we convince the government to do that too), but to help teach the teachers and the parents about washing hands (and the kids), and teach them how to make a toilet, or to use toilet paper instead of newspaper. Or help women understand their role in their local community (when the men are all looking for work in the cities, or on the hills); or encourage parents to care about their child's early development.

In Bhutan; the tiny mountainous kingdom somewhere between tibet, burma and india, they don't measure GDP, they measure happiness (and there was an international conference discussing this recently). It is an interesting question -that of happiness. Much like how pointless the 2 USD a day poverty line is. 2 USD a day is a fortune for many of these people, and they are living without it. But the questions are, are they able to have the opportunies others have? Do they want to be able to reach their potential? Do they want to be educated to a higher level... hmmm

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